Can you take some screenshots of the motor detection using the 2kg outrunner and any other settings you change after reseting defaults. Does it detect halls and it’s running with those at low rpms?
Do you have the ability to measure motor resistance and inductance manually to compare?
If the detected values are bad it won’t run FOC right. You can also do manual detections on the FOC tab and play with current / time constants to see if you get something that works.
Flipsky 75100 v1 and makerbase 75100 v1 with oficial 6.02 no limit I tried the limited version also this is the result with laotie es10p motor 1000w 52v (motor with no halls) and this are the results with same motores same controller but with 75300_r2 firmware how can it be? Witch firmware should I use?
i keep getting these transient under voltage and over current faults, went through all my connection points and wiring thoroughly but it’s legit.
Anyone had any luck with AS5047P on a 75100v2 over SPI? Connecting to the hall lines I get nothing except induced noise on my analyzer, it doesn’t seem to pull hall3 low for CS. I saw another post about there being caps on some flipsky hall inputs that break SPI, but I can’t see the same layout on the PCB for the 75100.
I tried using the hardware SPI port too but I can’t figure out how/if that’s exposed on the port. It looks like the 75300 is meant to expose this on the COMM port using RX for CS, ADC2 for MISO and ADC1 for SCK, but that doesn’t look right for the hwconf which has CS on A4 rather than shared with RX1 on B11… So I’m not sure the hardware SPI is actually fully exposed on the 75100 at all? Or possible it’s misconfigured away from the I2C/UART pins, since the trampa 75300 hwdef also seems to mismatch the SPI labels on the case…
I suspect I should be trying to use soft SPI, but if caps need removing maybe it’s easier to recompile the soft SPI to use something other than the hall pins if they have pullups or caps that interfere with SPI… I’m only otherwise using the CAN interface so I could detach the UARTs or I2C if I had to…
Help appreciated!
Hi jaykup,
I am drifted from eFoil channel into this forum (however, I have a DIY eMountainboard) and seeing some issue with my Flipsky VESCs. I was wondering if you can enlighten me. I have quite a big inrunner motor with 120kv and 10pole on a 14S 36Ah Li Ion Battery:
driven already by a 75200 (old version with white potting, watercooled) and now the new 75200 watercooled which is i guess same to the VERSION 75200 Aluminum PCB. I have stock FW installed (75_300_R2) and I have trouble to run my motor at higher duty. Here is a log from today:
The issue is, that the motor starts to desync / scratch / make noise and is not going higher speed at certain duty / rpm. I also have that behavior in BLDC mode (and FOC ofc). I have done several detection and tweaking on motor parameters but there is no effect at all. The motor does spin in air fine at fully duty. Also in start phase in water I can easy pull 200a to lift. Once flying with the Efoil the current drops (less drag) and rpm increase to certain point where it shows the issue.
Does this correlate with the low / phase shunt FW topic ? What would you recommend to me for trouble shooting? I was going to test your new FW this weekend. I spent already hours in and outside of the water to fix it, but I was not successful. Your support is very much appreciated,
best
Jan
Same trouble on new firmware
Did you try this firmware? A few seem to have luck with it for the 75200 which has some hardware flaws
Btw any idea how to get more low end torque?
I run 2 hub motors with 2 FSESC 75100 Alu PCB’s and it does decent torque, HOWEVER it seems to start to take off over 15-20 kph and under that it is pretty mild, which is strange as i feel like i can accelerate 20 - 50 in the same time as 0-10, like actually mild
running FOC mode with hall sensors
the ERPM is kinda low due to the motors tho (about 8700 ERPM at 25 ish kph, need to check it but it’s around that)
50kph is pretty much near it’s duty cycle limit on the 48V battery and my weight, 60 with field weakening
both 42A on battery side and 120A max phase current
running standard observer though, and the hall sensors may or may not be off however multiple hall redetections didn’t change it’s behaviour so i guess it’s somewhere else
If you have an external heatsink you could try no limit firmware at 130-150A, (225A abs max, slow abs false) I know some are pushing it that hard but it’s always a risk.
A better way is to change the motor windings to something with a bit less top speed then upgrade to a 16/18s battery to get the top speed back. Or slightly smaller tire size. Could also do 20s, but if you plan to push past 120A that’s really at the edge of the controller’s reliability
Yeah thats the issue with all these electric power scooter wheels, they all essentially have the same KV rating, they all can do 100km/h on a 72V (84V max) battery/system unfortunately
I just think the FSESC holds back at low RPMS (but i also read somewhere the deadtime etc value change low end performance, and i still have it at 1000)
or i might just need to use the 75200’s but i’m planning to get a different scooter soon with a higher voltage battery out of the box, and double the Wh capacity as finding parts that fit on this one is rather hard, can’t even find suspension parts that fit on this Lol and i want more range
i’ll play a bit with the deadtime i suppose
curiously the Ubox is not 100% the same, they have a custom logic board, case and silkscreen on the case
it seems like the Ubox Alu PCB’s use the exact same powerstage and enclosure (sort of, not 100%), but that’s where the similarities seem to end
I guess they get the powerstage and case from the same people flipsky does but have their own logic PCB’s in it
I also don’t know if all components, like capacitors, are the same on the power stage
might be an interesting project to design my own logic board for my MKSESC75200 Alu PCB’s though, so i can use the INA181’s they use in the 75100 but unfortunately use a random opamp in the 75200 
It seems like you could fit the INA4181
if you lose the ceramic cap or put it somewhere else, bend the ref pins up and hook them up manually and cut the NC pins you could perhaps fit one of those in there
it would mean you need to skip one row of pins to hook those up manually (so the output pins match), but in theory it could work 
edit: seems like ref just needs to be at half voltage level, so just hooking those to a 50/50 potential divider at 3.3V should be fine
edit2: obviously needs other mods to delete the 20V/V multiplication done by the opamp (which will be resistors on the board) so the INA4181 can take care of that
So since i defo wasnt gonna use loopkeys (just one AS150 per vesc to initially precharge em and keep a good high current connection) with them 75200s and didnt want those shitty antisparks based on mosfets that usually dont really do their job… and i wanted to use it in a scooter so…
i went with a different approach…
basically there’s a trace running from battery + to the main buck converter and there’s a ceramic cap nearby
you might wonder where the trace runs, but it comes from the battery + from the bottom of the logic board… So i just cut the trace going to the main buck converter and ceramic filter cap
the original circuitry that need direct access/a direct reference to batt+ still have a direct connection (like the high side gate drivers)
this allows me to use one of those standard voltmeter key switches which i had from a Chinese scooter, they basically pass battery positive to the controllers
the result is… a modded 75200 with a switchable positive input
you just solder an input wire to the cap positive (its ceramic, doesnt really matter for the cap itself) which is connected to the buck chips’ vin
I wanted to be extra safe so i just used a 470Ohm resistor in series with the wire going to the cap
this is the side where it has to be soldered to and is the easiest to reach
to be safe i would recommend some kind of glue over the cap afterwards and something to protect the cut pcb from corrosion (epoxy, …)
in the end your result should be something like this, this was just on a psu set to 34v as an initial test.
note i havent done the opamp mod described earlier in the forums… yet
when no power is passed to the buck converter the power consumption is actually 0
ofcourse doing it this way, your case wont fit on but its best to mill/cut out the section around the buck converter either way cause it was touching the ceramic caps around it out of the box… which could end up in a nasty short overtime
Nice mod! thanks for the write up.
Maybe I can answer the difference between FSESC 75200 and MKSESC75200, because this is what I modified. The difference between SGM8584 and SGM8634:
Sorry for this result, if you bought it on AliExpress, you can contact customer service, I will suggest customer service to send you a new board!
For this capacitor problem, all the boards we have in stock have been replaced with smaller 1206.
No mines fine, i just wanted no loopkey, its a mod!
i can now turn it on with a switch that passes battery voltage to the board so the capacitors are permanently powered and the 75200 has a switch capability which powers the buck converter, that’s the only thing missing on these ESC’s apart from INA181’s
please do a revision with proper current sense ic’s instead of opamps!
Same like others, im going back to 5.2 :c i have the very low torque problem with exactlly the same config, 120A phase, 70A battery, and now it jerks!
i just go back to 5.2 and everything is fixed again, weird
Good news!!
NOTE: I share my Fiido Q1S micro motorcycle build log, including all the electronics and firmware, as OpenSource, here: Fiido Q1S: VESC + modular DIY OpenSource electronics and software | Endless Sphere DIY EV Forum
I flashed the firmware that improves the motor current on this cheap bad quality VESC and now the motor is much more silent, like a 100x improvement!!! The VESC motor auto-detection is almost perfect, but still seems the motor inductance value need to be corrected a bit - next I should do the hardware mod that should improve even more.
Finally I have a perfect silent motor, that I didn’t thought would be possible!!
Yesterday I did the usual 14 kms ride at the night to go to the gym and everything went well, except at very high currents - I may need to tweak a bit the detected motor L value.
And for the curious, I am using VESC on my EBikes / ESCooters / micro Emotorcycles and doing the high level logic, with DIY ESP32-S2/S3 boards, running high level Python firmware,to implement the system parts: main board (the communicates with VESC by UART), Display, BMS automatic turn on/off power board, rear lights board and front lights board. All this boards are simple DIY and communicate between them using wireless ESPnow.
Here a video:
Picture from yesterday ride:
