You can print a plug to cover it when not in use. And if you have children at home, that would be a good idea. You’ll never know when they decide to stick a screwdriver in there.
Do you have a link to the 3D printer files? I can’t seem to find a plug for the male connector, only covers (which won’t work with the printed mounts).
Wouldnt it be better to have it on positive side since its theoretically more likeley for ground to short somewhere on case??
Yeah that’s the common way to to it
Thingiverse is your friend - Search Thingiverse - Thingiverse
I haven’t printed these personally, so no guarantees
Edit: more on grabcad
https://grabcad.com/library/xt90-and-xt60-caps-1
https://grabcad.com/library/xt90-cover_esc-1
I wish they made these with the screws in the other orientation, like above and below.
I dont think I am picturing what you’re describing?
Ohhhh, like the screw holes above and below the opening for the connector. Still on the same plane though.
I thought you meant rotated 90 degrees on a different plane 
OH SHI-
Since I’m new to all these and about to plunge into my first build, I have a dumb question. I’m most likely going to go the loop key route as it looks more robust and safe.
Using the example in the original post, do I still need to do anything on the VESC to establish close circuit? Seem like most of the YouTube videos I watched use a switch plugged in to the VESC so I assumed that the VESC’s circuit Is open until the switch is plugged in and engaged. Or is the VESC on as soon as power is supplied to it?
Thanks.
Certain vescs do have switches built in. It will depend on which one you use if you have one or not
Thus, with the loop key, you can use it no matter what, but what ESC are you going to use?
There is nothing on a non-antispark switch vesc that you need to do in order to use a loopkey
Thanks, much appreciated.
I’m putting together a single drive Urban Carver so I’ll be using a Trampa VESC6 MkV.
Of course, yeah with that VESC, you don’t need to do anything special, just wire the loop key in series with the positive battery connection between the battery and esc and you’re good.
Awesome! So do I connect the loop on the + (red?) side of the series wiring harness?
Yep that’s what I would do. I have loopkeys on five or 6 builds and they’re all good
Cheers, mate!
I want to use my AWG 12 cables since I don’t have any AWG 10 to make my loop key wiring and I was wondering if it could handle the current?
I have a 12s8p battery with Sony VTC6 cells.
Thank you 
Curious as to what temperatures the loop keys are going to get to typically?
Sensational tutorial too 
google translation:
Hello
I’m working on a DIY project, so I’ll report back to you, with steps, photos, and progress, when I’ve finished it. And so while reading the thread, I looked into the anti-Spart.
So I just ordered a Saber Dynamics LoopKey
Is this the same thing as a loop key as I read on the forums, or is it just a different name?
Would it be better to place a protection fuse before or after the loop key in your opinion?
On the first board the anti-spart of the Unity before blown. So on my Xenith BKB, which is the same, I’d like to pass with a loop key.
I read that it was necessary to connect the MOMs of the Xenith so that it is always on. I understood that well.
My reasoning: The Xenith (connected) being as always on, it really is when I plug in the loop key, which will play its anti-spark role.
My question: If I leave the momentary switch without modification, I could not use the loop key for its real anti-spark use, except as a circuit breaker key, because the Xenith would not be pre-lit? Where is there in the loop a principle that would make the two incompatible in operation?
Because I imagine that by connecting the MOM plug of the Xenith, I would no longer have automatic standby and starting while driving. I will have to systematically remove the key after use, even briefly, this has an advantage, which is that the battery is completely separate from the Xenith, and therefore no risk of discharge in the event of a malfunction.
I’m thinking of finding a switch that is momentary when you start pressing it, but ends up locking if I press it all the way.
The advantage would be to start it normally with the momentary button, and act as if the loop key did not exist, and retain the acquired knowledge of the Xenith, but once use is finished and before recharging, disconnect the Lookey key.
Then the second interest would be that if the anti-spark of the which would prevent me from modifying later, and being able to distribute the day when this breakdown will occur. But if I can’t find a switch that combines the momentary and latching functions, I would simply add a latching button in parallel and activate the one that suits me.
What do you think ?
Thank you for your time
Yours, John
