Might be too much. But im pretty sure others have done so before. Tb110 wheels?
Only way to tell it to bolt it up
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Any riser is too much riser in my opinion.
Therefore, try and minimise it as much as possible is my advice
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I used to be anti-riser but actually felt way more stable with the tunnel riser, contrary to my intuition. I just love the cable management with that riser and wanna use the hammocks. And yeah @Skunk TB110’s, shit’s gonna be pretty high up. Might just give it a go with a really low angle
Running two .5" risers on caliber ii 100mm wheels myself. The higher (adding risers) you go the less stable high speeds will be.
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You’re fine don’t trip
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I regularly run 25mm of riser. Obviously, the less, the better.
The Hammock baseplates look like they have about 20mm of built-in rise (at 50 degrees versus Caliber 2 according to my empirical measurements) and the Riptide Tunnel Risers are 14mm thick. That’d be over 34mm of riser which is a lot but not completely absurd. It’s right on the border of absurd, though…
(This is all on 107mm and 110mm wheels)
I’d run it. In fact I might be using tunnel risers with a Hammock very soon myself. Hopefully it’s good.
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the less the better. Hammock adds around 20mm riser at 50degree. I personally route a channel in the deck and run the cable underneath. I like low ride board.
Anyhow the hammock is mounted reverse. Logo in front 
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I am running a 3mm rubber riser at the front, and a flatland 3d bash guard and tunnel riser at the back. However I am running 60 deg at the front and about 35 at the back, so the risers helped balance the height and they are the same now. If you plan to do split angles than the tunnel riser should be fine since a lower angle will make it low.
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Oh hell yeah, I’m seeing some really cool stuff here! I’m definitely gonna go for it and run split angles similar to Linny, should be fun. @legend27 how fast do you go with something like that? Does it really limit your speed all THAT much?
It’s not that it limits speed but it increases leverage between deck and trucks.
Witch makes wobbles a bit more interesting.
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i’ve gone about 46 km/h I believe. not as fast as others, but that’s when my board tops out. Had wobbles once and drove them out.
The trick to avoid wobbles for me, seems to be tightening the back truck instead of both/front. That makes it still very turn able but all the wobbles disappear at the back of the board instead of continuing.
I am by no means a truck expert and what im saying is probably totally not understandable 
edit:
That was too many risers though. Never road it on the road, but didnt feel good standing on 
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Spot on, alawys keep your back trucks tighter than your front
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I usally test 3d printed risers until I find the perfect height, then go from there. Anything over a inch tends to put the board to high up making bails alot harder.
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I don’t think I need to actually say it in words, but that’s a lotta miles. 
Is it still pretty much the same 13S Master Evo? Any routine maintenance items learned? Battery pack still has balls? No DRV errors?
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What is the actual size of the wheels now
Your helmet must stink soooo bad 
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I just tried your tip with the superglue on the 77A Caguamas this week, they started chunking in less than 100 km, did wonders to them, thanks a lot for this
And about risers, the least amount, none if possible, mounting drop through is even better
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I’m not sure about this. Topmount always felt “better” to me, more in control. Drop mount seems to mute the control and agility.
Not so much of an issue for me with eskate because I tend to be going straight and fast most of the time. All this time, I still don’t like to take deep turns at any kind of speed on motorized boards, fearing glitches.
I don’t mind tons of riser either. I’ve had up to 1.5" on non-powered boards.