Good for taking the morning edge off.
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I’ve been in a factory that produces electronics, and they run all the PCBs through a commercial dishwasher after the reflow process.
I’ve also cleaned PCBs under water at home.
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Yes PCBs are washed, but the type/condition of water matters, and having a procedure that guarantees it’s dry afterwards is a must.
https://www.pcbunlimited.com/products/incle-3600-inline-conveyorized-aqueous-cleaner
if you wanna clean at home, use distilled water, and make sure it’s dry and wait twice as long before powering it, a toaster oven can be used for quick drying in a pinch but make sure you can set a low enough temperature to not melt plastic
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We bake our parts usually at 80C for 24 hours after running our stuffs. To bake out he moisture
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@Scepterr do you use ultrasonic cleaners? I watched Louis Rossmann clean a lot of boards on youtube. If I’m not mistaken, it’s heated citrus based (water?) bath, then a bath in alcohol after?
Based on what I remember from these board repair videos OP’s procedure doesn’t sound that crazy (EDIT except the rustoleum!). Well the cleaning part at least. Wouldn’t advocate this for general witchdoctoring of vescs though.
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There’s a lot of different materials used on different components, so I’d pretty much never suggest a rust remover which is likely to eat some things besides rust.
Not interested in bullying anyone but I think these instructions are somewhat dangerous and feel it is correct to point that out. I wash pcbs in water sometimes, It’s not the best practice, but if you then wash with 90% rubbing alcohol afterwards it will dilute the water and dry more consistently/rapidly. Does have a tendency to deposit salts on the board though which will cause corrosion eventually, you would be better off using distilled.
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I second this process. We submerge active (not powered on) samples into water. Baking the samples out is a better guarantee that no water is left inside small crevices, where it can heat up, vaporize, and ruin a component. We also use Distilled or DI water instead of tap, as tap has minerals in it that can potentially lead to corrosion.
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I usually just pour Coca-Cola on it and a scrub it with a scotch-brite pad, then send it back to the customer without testing it.
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Yes I use ultrasonic with distilled water with an added electronics cleaning agent for cleaning corroded parts before repairs, then alcohol after repair.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0725WP9Z9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
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If this topic started off with the OP listing what he’s done and his experience and asked for input to better the process, point out redundant/pointless steps, etc, this topic would’ve been much better received.
Making this a definitive “How-to” I think is what rubbed most people the wrong way.
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This doesn’t say that, it says “How I fix broken Focbox Unity [ESCs]”
I bet OP and everyone else, including me, who read this thread have learned something, which is a Good Thing 
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Ah damn. Next time my Unity doesn’t turn off I’m putting it in the dishwasher instead of sending it to @JohnnyMeduse 
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faukk that… give the offending unity a swirlly in the toilet… then send it to Johnny!
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Wow! Thanks for all the replies Guys!
By the way, my Focbox Unities are still running well since the last cleaning : )
While i’m online, I thought I would share another finding from my efforts relating to Electronic Skateboarding.
Now that Enertion can no longer supply new Tires (a.k.a. Outwheels) for the Raqtor 2.1 Hub Motors, I have been studying ways to preserve the Raptor 2.1 Rubber Tires/Outwheels.
Here is what I have come up with so far.
So basically, after you get back from a ride, you clean off the tires by brushing them with a clean paint brush, or some paper towels, or a clean cloth, you know, just to get the loose dirt and dust off. Then, you put on a latex glove or similar and liberally apply “Armor-All Protectant” to the entire Rubber part of the tire. This product comes in a White Bottle with orange and yellow and black colors on the Sticker. A spray bottle that can be found in most all automotive parts stores and many other stores.
But here’s where it gets interesting. there is another treatment that you do after every other ride, or every 2 rides, or any time you notice any damage to the exterior of the Rubber TIre/Outwheel.
Basically, at the Dollar Store they have these little packs of “Super Glue Gel” Usually 2 for 1 dollar. So what I do is I clean off the loose dust from the tires with a paint brush or clean cloth etc, then I put on a silicone glove and apply a thin even coat of the Super Glue Gel all around the Outer Diameter of the tires and also on the inner portion and the outer portion where the material is the same Rubber. I use about 2 of the little tubes per tire, and also back fill in any small crevices, or along the edges of the tires where the rubber starts cracking off.
So then obviously you wait awhile to ride until the super glue is dry. When you are starting up your board, you might spin the wheels a little bit and hold some sand paper to them to make sure there are no high spots. Also, for the first mile or so, the traction is reduced a bit which is kind of fun. But by the end of the ride, the tires look good.
So then you dust them off with the paint brush or cloth, and hit them with the Armor All. Let em dry over night or so so. Then take em for a ride.
My tires are holding up pretty well with like: 1 ride then Armor All, 1 ride then do nothing, 1 ride then Super GlueGel, 1 ride then Armor All, etc.
I don’t think you’d want to put the Super Glue Gel on every other time, but occasionally using these products seems to be preserving my tires fairly well at this point in time.
Not sure where i’ll get new tires when these ones wear out. Somewhere I read that Rubber can be machined while frozen!
Alright guys, have a good time!
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Omg. Do you smoke or inject meth
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Scrub 43 to 67 seconds