just throwing in my 2p. there is a reason the team trampa riders are switching to bro decks. aps motors need battle hardening and the v2 motors have pre installed nsk bearings in them. fuck springs in trucks (rather not have my ass wobbling around the place) 8 or 9 inch are both good if balanced nicely. and @moon drives are fantastic
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You can reduce the Problem by having very stiff trucks for your weight. If i just go straight I almost don’t need to balance at all it just gets held straight by the bushings.
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Depends how you ride. Flex on corners can cause the board to flex and then return.
This is what I will call deck wobbles. Trucks you can tighten to help mitigate this but
you can not tighten a deck. I would also suggest at least MED or STIFF for higher speeds.
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Bushings won’t solve the problem of the deck rebound kicking my feet off the board, which is purely vertical motion. That can only be solved from the deck itself.
Also I still like turning within a reasonable diameter at low speeds 
. I run symmetrical 50 degree Paris with very loose bushings on my freeride deck, makes it easier to initiate slides and ride switch. It’s no downhill board, but it feels way more stable than my flexy board with harder asymmetric bushings, which doesn’t turn as well and gets starts getting sketchy sooner.
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I think it’s because, like on a spring mattress, the force that got the springs moving in one direction will be countered by the springs in the opposite direction with the same force minus some losses, wobbling a few dozen times with no additional input. Urethane bushings go the direction they are pushed in, maybe 25% in the opposite direction and then center themselves
When riding fast I have my knees bent pretty far to stay connected to the board when it flexes. I might be a bit biased because flexy decks is all im used to. My first board was stupidly hard and I didn’t like it so I want straight to Vanguard flex 4 … doing up to 70kmh … i know experienced boarders will say that’s stupid but it for me it somehow works and I really like it.
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@athrx if you are interested in building a battery i dont mind lending a welder and all the parts you might need
def advise apex though as they have awesome customer service
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Trampas ones are priced without VAT 
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A monster plan for sure!
For reference, I can hit 60 km/h on my 15 ply trampa deck with spring trucks and no dampas in the front, but anything from 55 it already starts to get a bit sketchy (I hit 64 downhill once). I run 1:4 gearing 6374 170kv motors, v6 esc’s and 12s6p 30q battery. If you want to hit 75-80km/h id suggest starting at max 40 or 50 and working your way up. It took me a while to able to controll the board well at higher speed. Sometimes you hit a small pothole or bump in the road which takes some experience and balance to account for. And its probably straight forward, but ive learned to make sure you always explore the road before you make a fast run, dont want to hit a pothole going 80.
Good luck with the build.
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I know from experience that getting used to your setup works wonders with stability. I run 88A riptide barrels in the front loosely and hit 67km/hr a few times, but a few months ago i wouldn’t have dared, it was either being able to take corners or going fast
I don’t really have the time anymore to build one, i’d prefer to get either the lego set battery pack mentioned up or shop around for builders if i give up on trying to fly with it.
@Creavenger i found too that 55-60km/hr is the point there everything turns from toy car sounds to jet engines, steering becomes nearly useless and the whole thing becomes way more serious. I will for sure work my way up in learning how the setup behaves.
Also, interesting to know that speed is possible on a 15ply deck.
Thanks for the input guys
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Looking forward to it!
I really like what’s coming out of that team and the cnc router. If what comes can be completely waterproof with no big compromises i’m sold.
Apologies, before brexit they were £125 and £110, then right after both options turned to £110, with trampa charging the tax at the checkout instead of showing it upfront
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Update: got to try the haero deck today and i am SOLD on it. Feels soo natural coming straight from a hummie.
I somehow completely forgot to ask if it’s the medium or stiff one 
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from who
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Some guy billy, he’s on carve uk and works at evolve. Met him right after work in stratford olympic park
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nice cool
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Maybe it was billy wizz, he mentioned on YT he was getting a bro
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I think so. There’s 2 billies regularly posting on the group and i have no idea which one is which, i didn’t even recognize the poor guy after so much quarantine
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Okay, deck is settled, haero bro stiff, thing’s a beauty and feels like it was molded after my own feet. Really impressed.
Now i got a question for everyone knowledgeable in the matter:
Ignoring thermal limits, how much more powerful is a 63100 motor compared to a 6374?
Let’s say compared to a 190kv 6374 motor rated for 80A; would the 63100 motor (190 kv) be more efficient at the same power? Or only allow me to achieve a higher potential max current, let’s say 110A?
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Far from an expert. But the motor size has very little effect on the power you get out. Power comes from battery and motor amps set in the esc.
However if you have a tiny motor it will overheat and be less powerful because of losses caused by the heat.
So if you ride in snowy Sweden vs sunny California it makes all the difference in the world.
Riding style, wheel choice, weight and terrain also makes a world of difference to the heat you generate.
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I can zoom around all day long doing 60kmh on 85mm street wheels with 6355 motors. And they barely get over 40-50 C. When it’s 15C outside
Running 100 battery amps 160 motor amps on a shitty 12s4p 30Q setup
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