Okay, deck is settled, haero bro stiff, thing’s a beauty and feels like it was molded after my own feet. Really impressed.
Now i got a question for everyone knowledgeable in the matter:
Ignoring thermal limits, how much more powerful is a 63100 motor compared to a 6374?
Let’s say compared to a 190kv 6374 motor rated for 80A; would the 63100 motor (190 kv) be more efficient at the same power? Or only allow me to achieve a higher potential max current, let’s say 110A?
Far from an expert. But the motor size has very little effect on the power you get out. Power comes from battery and motor amps set in the esc.
However if you have a tiny motor it will overheat and be less powerful because of losses caused by the heat.
So if you ride in snowy Sweden vs sunny California it makes all the difference in the world.
Riding style, wheel choice, weight and terrain also makes a world of difference to the heat you generate.
I can zoom around all day long doing 60kmh on 85mm street wheels with 6355 motors. And they barely get over 40-50 C. When it’s 15C outside
Running 100 battery amps 160 motor amps on a shitty 12s4p 30Q setup
So in short, if i put 100A through a magic 6354 motor that always stays at exactly room temperature, i will get 100A worth of torque, and if i put 100A through a 63100 motor with the same magic properties, i will still get 100A worth of torque?
I am thinking there must be some losses on both sides of the spectrum that give some advantages and disadvantages beyond just temperature and the carry weight
80 motor amps on 6354?
100 battery amps actually coming out of that pack? I swear my vtc6 pack at the time it was still in use sagged close to 3.2v/cell at 60A… damn
And my flipshit 6374’s coil whine at 90A, it’s quite scary as they’re dead silent at 85
this is a worthwhile read. from @Gamer43
but yeah basically the torque constant is in direct relation to the KV of the motor. so as long as they doesnt over heat and both stays cool, you get the same torque out of the motors per ampere.
however a larger motor generally has a lower internal resistance so it will stay cooler. but if the ambient is cold as f and keeps the temps low it doesnt really make a difference what so ever.
what some people have a hard time grasping is that you dont really add much heat to the system if you just up the settings. sure you might ride more aggressive. and accelerate harder. but it will consume the same amount going 40 kmh no matter your amp settings. getting fatter makes a difference though. so does swaping from street to AT wheels for example.
not sure what you need but. 4wd on 6355 should have you flying 6374 is prob overkill.
I would more so focus on the battery and especially the ESC and find something that doesnt crap itself at stupidly high amp settings.
Then its up to you if you will ever use all that power, might be very hard to reach.
Another update:
Ordered trampa’s monsterbox, but apparently they’re missing some parts so there’s probably another week until i see the thing.
I’ve decided to reuse my current vesc6+ controllers. New ones are just too pricy while the only downside for these is the need for a loopkey or external antispark. They also refuse to die 
In the meantime i can justify owning a 3dprinter by printing hollow cells, p42a-sized
Still needed/undecided: channel trucks, wheels, drivetrain, motors
Question, does anyone use a small bag on top of the battery box? Ideally it should be secure enough to never fall off by itself and big enough to carry a small pump, spare tube and the most essential of tools
go 3ds expensive but so worth it brialliant quality and if you message him he gives good discounts if you buy bundles from him
stick some big ol 63100 and you done
damn, this thing’s going to be ready in no time 
what battery size are you going for?
The prices on the front page leave me thinking a bit too long still. Can you give me an example of a bundle that makes sense price-wise?
Why not just wear a backpack? I could think of ways to attach it there but it feels easier and cleaner to just wear a backpack
I always do when I ride
new trucks baseplates gear drives and hubs for i believe 600euro (or there about)
going even down a cheaper option like boardnamics is gonna end up at 400 or so for that and his stuff is way better
Still thinking, probably between 12s6p and 7p. I need to see if i can fit a tracker, dc-dc converter and leave some room to breathe for the wiring this time.
It will be ready just in time to part-out my hummie that brings my vescs at 65-70°C while it’s -2°C outside
if your parting out the hummie i may be interested in the actual deck since its been routed already. i managed to shave off around 3cm of mine but didnt make it look very nice
I wear a backpack for work, overall i have everything i need for the board in the front little pocket. I can disassemble everything, minus the trampa vesc lid screws, with just 3 allen keys and an adjustable key. If i’m out to fuck around i prefer to feel that 5% more free
Gotcha. Guess that makes sense. Good luck getting channel trucks for a reasonable price haha
Took me ages to even get my Oil Slicks and they have mounts on them already
Ok… 600€ makes sense… it’s like £520 before customs for 3 of the things i’m looking for. I will keep this in mind.
About the hummie part-out, sure thing. Calling some far and distant dibs i guess. You need to know that i did a far from great job and i also dug up roughly the thickness of the back baseplate into the deck. That way a 40-50 baseplate setup is equal (and really stable).
And about boardnamics geardrives… sigh… i ordered them in october and received them at the beginning of february, and something in them is oval, with no solution from the seller. Once is enough, i want something that works right the first time around, with at least some proven reliability beforehand
Still fishing around. It’s surprising how few actual mountainboard parts are around for sale. It’s a whole new level of expected quality in this area and i’m quite happy about this
