I theorize that the initial inflation of the tube, and then the tube within the tire, and the initial heating and usage of that tire, play a part in how the tire then behaves the rest of its life.
When inflating the new tube outside the new tire for the first time, that ridged area of the tube, opposite the valve stem always seems the narrowest. I think going slowly up in PSI with a hand pump, and trying to get the tube to impersonate a true donut shape, just larger than the tube would be when confined inside the tire itself , to the best of its ability, is probably beneficial.
At worst , it can’t hurt other than wasting time. I use my belly against the table squeezing the fatter parts and try to expand the narrower portions of tube, as I slowly inflate it to just larger than it would be when constrained within the tire itself.
My tires are a bit loose on my rims so I need to carefully center them. I like having hanger removed from the board resting on one wheel and the other horizontal at eye level, and a good reference behind to eyeball the effects of kneading and bending the tire and playing with PSI via a handpump, and trying to get all visible bounce and wobble removed at hand spinning speed, on the bench, then locking them in with more PSI, then test ride.
I recently got some Kenda k473, and was fairly methodical on the the second one’s initial centering and inflation. I nailed the second installed tire on the first try, but the less methodical one I did first, had me turn around after 40 meters and start over repeating the steps I used on number 2 run true, and ultimately got number 1 almost as perfect as true number two.
I was getting frustrated but then pushed, pulled and kneaded and spun it up and one time it surprisingly spun nearly perfect, so I inflated it to 25PSI, returned hanger to deck and hit the throttle and let out a Whohoo! as I was expecting a longer battle with less good results.
I have not even used the balance weights yet, and they are super smooth upto 28mph, where I rarely go. 150ish miles on them, and so far so good, but I want to switch their sides and play with PSI. I’ve not really pushed them hard cornering yet. Still getting used to the noise they make when cornering and the tread squirm and sidewall deflection and their feedback over irregularities.
My previous tires, 8x3” cheng shin turf tires I did not initially take any steps other than centering and hoping they were round and wobble free, and would dewobble themselves, but they didn’t.
Only after they didn’t behave as well as desired after several rolling heating sessions on Florida summer asphalt did I go through more efforts to dewobble them, and while there were degrees of success, there was also just acceptance of the wobble, and hoping further use would help reduce it.
I tried cornstarching of tube and inner tire, and stretching the narrower portions of tube outside tire, recentering, reseating, and then using heat and spinning the tire up with my hub motors to 20mph, then using the edge of hub motor urethane on the rim itself and probably getting the tire to spin 65 or 70mph, but then finding the speed where the wobble and vibration was worst and marking those high spots.
This centrifugal centering and stretching seemed to be fairly effective. I’d mark the high spots of tire with a colored pencil, and deflate a bit and push it in a bit and reinflate and spin it back up and remark it, and find the high spot had shifted. Lather rinse and repeat until the wobble and bounce is was as good as felt I could have gotten it.
I got one tire really good and had to accept the other would always have a bit of a wobble, and then balanced them, then put a lot of miles on them.
One thing I contemplated doing but never did, was spinning up a hopelessly wobbly tire, that is balanced, to high speeds, and hitting those high spots with an angle grinder with a new 36 grit flap sander spinning at 11K rpm.
I have some 4.50-3.50-4s on Fiona’s Chariot. Hand truck tires, never meant to go above walking speed. They too, initially, had very bad wobbling going on, and even with the centrifugal spinning, and identifying high spots then trying to knead and remove them. I was never able to get one of these tires dewobbled perfectly, but they took a lot more heating and breaking in at different PSI levels to get as good as they would ultimately get, which is not too bad up to 25mph, and now are also high mileage.
While I have not tried it with rims and tires, I have used an accelerometer APP on my phone, pressed up against a Axial fan casing firmly, trial and error adding weights to the fan blades, with excellent results on some fans, but others improved some, yet remained stubborn, and I think the shape of the fan’s blades at high speed was changing at higher speeds.
Try an Accelero App with phone zip tied firmly to hanger, and have a way to bench spin the tires up to speed. Any balancing weights can appear effective centered on the rim when not moving, but perhaps they need to be located towards one edge of the rim’s width to offset the imbalance properly.
When narrowing in the imbalanced fan, I found where I placed the weight on the lightest fan blade itself played as big a part as the amount of added weight, and distance from center.
How the tire behaves when loaded with 1/4 of your board and body weight on it can likely be far different when on the bench, but if there is no bounce or wobble on the bench hopefully that translates to no bounce or wobble underfoot.
