hahah yeah I’ll let you know fosho
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On the Ebay escs you have to remove soldering to go from 6s-7s-10s
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well wowgo says it’s ok apparently, I dunno how much I trust this tho…
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You won’t blow anything (don’t quote me) but the HVC (High voltage cutoff) is preprogrammed and with 12s @ 50.4 volts you will certainly hit it. That means the ESC will turn on and refuse to drive the motors.
I haven’t personally tested a hobbywing but I did test 12s and 11s on the Meepo v2 “binary” ESC and I triggered the HVC at 48V. I also had no brakes from about 47.5V to 46V. I was able to run it at 11s for a few months before I got my Unity.
EDIT: Just in case someone decides to do this, make sure you don’t run the pack to far down because the preprogrammed low voltage cutoff (LVC) will allow your cells to be over-drained!
If you are comfortable, do some tests and come tell us what you find!
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hell, I live for these science experiments! I’ll plug it in a see how it goes 
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Very nice, that’s what I like to hear. I imagine the programming on the hobbywing is similar to the Meepo one so feel free to use my numbers as a reference when you test. So you don’t go out without brakes 
can you foreward me some info on that? How do I go about programming it? If you have a link I’ll just read it. Also send me the numbers u used plzz
the remote’s vibrating and blinking in a way I’ve never seen before after throttling. Is that the HVC being triggered? Any way around this? Thanks and sorry for the excess nOOb-ism.
Thanx for the science. Can you try to ride it?
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Lol yeah I will tonight after work lmao
You can’t program or change the HW.
Try it without the sensors. I hooked up a Hobbywing to my old Meepo 1.0 motors and had a lot of odd issues with sensors employed. It works a lot better now unsensored. Smooth as hell in both accel and brake once you get going, just realise you’ll need to kick push to get underway.
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As @BillGordon said you can’t program it. As for the numbers, I just meant the ons in my post above about HVC and the no brakes between a certain voltage range.
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All you gotta do is unplug the sensors to ride sensorless?? Any HW issues to worry about doing that (not that you can change the HW anyway)?
Correct, the ESC will automatically recognize the sensors aren’t plugged in but it will cog at low speeds. A kick push is necessary.
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ANyone got any tips on how I can get this sucker off the enclosure? I’m not seeing any screws and it looks like the ESC is on a plate, filled with black silicone and then that plate is somehow adhered to the enclosure. I’m guessing it’s some hardcore adhesive paste like JB weld or something because I jammed a flathead in there to leverage it out and it does not wanna give
EDIT Got it NVMND
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Ok I finally decided to take this POS out for a spin after making a gorilla tape enclosure for it
I haven’t ridden this board in a while so it’s hard to tell for certain but it feels like the 12s2p switch gives more torque and top speed. Like, maybe a 8%-10% bump. HOWEVER, what’s scary is that the hubs start locking up and automatically slow you down when the wheels are freely spinning, and the remote does that vibration and blinky light thing
(see video above) everytime the hubs move. So after releasing the throttle everytime it does this and even if you just spin the hubs by hand it does this, and then the wheels start immedietly locking up. What is this? Anybody know? I would love to do a full range and speed test but not until I fix this thing because it’s terrifying going fast and then letting off the throttle and it starts slowing down automatically. Downhill isn’t even an option. Mucho help would be V much appreciated.
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Update: now the wheels spin freely but the brakes don’t work I changed nothing on the setup
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This for hub motor special model. Is not run 12, only 10. Need different hobbywing model for 12.
can you send link to “hub motor special model”?
Yeah, 12s with this esc was always going to be a stretch. Will be interesting to try the Hobbywing belt-version or the 40-amp version when they become available separately.
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