I would say definitely go for a bike chassis/frame that is designed for electrification, like the Typhoon or Vortex. I started with just a regular fat tire bike and built my enclosure/mounting shit from scratch, and it was a monumental waste of time and effort, for something that isn’t as nice or ergonomic.
Plus, those frames actually have provision for suspension. All I’ve got is big squishy tires, and that’s it.
I’m a big fan of the Cycle Analyst dashboard system. They’re pricey, but they have tons of configurability (they’re not just a display, they can actually control stuff.)
I can recommend some components with regards to dc-dc conversion (for a low voltage system, E.G. 12v for lights n shit).
I will be following this, I want to do the same but have no idea where to start except what style bike I’d like to do it too. Even then I have to cross ref if the components will even be compatible.
I’m definitely thinking the vortex as a good start. Now trying to figure out battery and controller!
For my build I used a 20S7P battery and a 72v, 100A controller from Sabvoton (now mqcon I think). It works very well, but the documentation was… less than stellar. Had to do quite a bit of trial and error and use a lot of google-fu to figure out the wiring, and get all the settings correct in the janky configuration software.
I suspect the newer ones are probably a little better in that regard, but I don’t have any hard evidence to back that up.
That said, they make up to a 72v, 260A (that’s battery amps. >550 A phase current) controller that’s surprisingly compact.
My main gripe is I don’t have variable regen, mainly because the cycle analyst speaks a different language. Not a huge deal, I currently have it set up with basically engine braking on a car: Let off the throttle and the regen kicks in at a set level. Not the smoothest, but it works.
For the motor, I went with a MXUS 3K turbo, which is an absolute monster. It’s rated 3Kw from the factory, but with some minor mods (Mainly adding about 10ml of ferrofluid and maybe some hubsinks), that limit more than doubles. Seriously, it barely even gets warm most of the time, and I don’t even have hubsinks. Just the ferrofluid.
What I had on my list was 8kW 
Is that overkill? Lol
I mostly ride on the street, and because I accidentally underspecced my battery’s cells a bit for the maximum power draw to save some money, I usually ride it at half power, or 50A maximum, which works out to about 3.5 KW give or take.
I easily hit 40MPH (limited by motor KV), and hills are no problem. In unlimited mode (100A, ~7.5 KW), the thing is a beast, and would probably wheelie if I wasn’t careful. (The bike weighs 100 lbs, and I’m about 200.)
Also like I said in my earlier post, adding some ferrofluid greatly improves the cooling capacity of the motor, and adding some heatsinks on the outside of the hub (hubsinks) makes it even better still. The limit for a lot of hub motors isn’t magnetic saturation, but thermals. Since the heat generating part, the stator, is inside the rotating hub, there’s an air gap between them, which makes cooling the stator difficult. Ferrofluid (magnetic nanoparticles suspended in an oil, basically) sticks to the magnets, filling the gap between the stator and the rotor, allowing a direct thermal path.
This allows a smaller, lighter, cheaper motor to punch above its weight class in a lot of cases. With sustained high speed riding (30-40MPH and 2-3 KW), the hottest I’ve ever seen my motor’s stator get is mid-60s C.)
You just blew my mind. Is there any downfalls to using the ferrofluid?
It’s messy (it gets everywhere and will stain things) so you need to be careful while working with it, and make sure your motor is really really well sealed. While I was replacing the hall sensors and adding ferrofluid, I took both side plates off and siliconed the shit out of them with permatex RTV gasket maker before reassembling.
I’ve also heard of lower quality ferrofluids drying up (volatiles lost from the oil base, like kerosene or something) or settling out (the nanoparticles are coated in a surfactant that keeps them suspended, and if this fails you end up with magnetic sludge in regular oil, rather than ferrofluid) over time, but I haven’t had any issues like that.
The addition can add a tiny amount of additional rolling resistance/friction due to the viscosity, but it’s minimal.
Since it’s magnetic, it will suck into the gap between the magnets and the stator and stay there, so you don’t need nearly as much as you would if you were using a not-magnetic coolant like ATF (which some people have done BTW, and it does work, it’s just SUPER messy and has even more friction losses because you’re using like 1-200ml or more ATF to do the same job as 10ml of ferrofluid.)
This could be the perfect budget ebike ESC:
16S (80v) capable
Will do 100 amps for 10 minutes without any additional heatsinks, and 200 amps + with proper cooling.
Current Stock: 0
Ahh, missed that.
In the esk8 (dirt bike?) game you ALWAYS have to check that. I’ve missed that so many times… if it’s not in stock or in your hand, don’t plan to use it 
I keep forgetting that shortages is the new normal.
The vesc 100/250 is comparable in price, and in stock right now.
Plus it will handle up to 22S rather than 16.
And it’s a hell of a lot smaller than my sabvoton controller. Probably will go with one of them for ebike v2 if I can afford it.
Warning, this doesn’t have an IMU, in case you had any plans to use that.
The real truth is slightly more blurry, that you never know which Trampa ESCs have IMUs and which ones don’t, they keep changing, assume they don’t unless/until told otherwise.
Yeah, I don’t have any plans for IMU stuff at the moment.
Maybe an EUC or onewheel at some point? Could be interesting.
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Many folks here could build a vehicle that smokes that. “Top speed” is hardly a useful measure of quality. Your post reads like an advertisement for a low-quality vehicle mostly focused on checking off marketing bullet points, and not actual quality construction techniques for a reliable vehicle.
Tell us more about how the battery is constructed, what cells it uses, the thickness of the conductors used, how many series and parallel groups it has, the insulation between P-groups, and about its vibration resistance.
I’m pretty sure I’ve seen these “knight bikes” before 
I think they’re the same as these.