Ok so i have a dare i say old set of m1 drive train with small issues i kept putting off.
First, the clearance between the hanger and hanger mount wasnt perfect. I think it was just loose in the beginning and constantly applying torque just made it worse so i put tape to fill in the gaps which i know isnt a great but temporary solution. What are some solutions for this without new hanger and hanger mounts? Its probably easier to do that but i dont mind trying other solutions first and a new set might even have the same problem. I thought hot glue as a solution incase i ever wanted to take them off opposed to epoxy and jbweld but idk if the motors would produce enough heat in 100F weather to melt the glue. Opinions?
Second issue is related to my 270 hangers. The hanger has a slight bend where the baseplate area is bending towards the ground and the wheel area up and the new 10-8 axles are short a few mm too much which leads to my point, how do i remove these axles that have not much of a surface to grip on while having red/loctite 680 (i never planned to take them out so i didnt think much). Essentially correct length axles are on my bent hanger and new hangers have too short axles.
Third issue, rusted bearings (with a delaminated tb wheel) stuck on axles. I’ve tried wd40, acetone, and a hammer. I got one off but not the other. Any better solutions than to keep trying?
Bearings - If I were on a job, and a bearing was not coming off I would go to my car and get a Mapgas torch, bearing pullers, bearing splitter, grinder with 1mm cutting disc, cold chisel. Also, wood chisels are good for separating parts but don’t expect to be fitting locks and strike plates in your new french doors afterwards.
I don’t have an opinion on the fitment of BN gear drives, I’m still waiting for my set to arrive.
For the loose adapters you can try coating the ends of the hangers in a thin layer of vasoline or similar (use a bit of heat to thin it out so it’s just a film, add some JB weld to the adapter, and seat it in…in theory once the JB weld cures it will slide off the Vaseline and leave a perfectly contoured negative of the hanger with a nice snug fit
For the axles I’d try to bake them out, look up the degradation temperature of red loctite and if it’s not too high then stick them in your oven until it comes up to temperature
For the TB wheel if you can pop the core out it lets you properly clean the surfaces (I’d run them through the dishwasher since it will get all the oils off) then you can use some thin super glue and re-bond the core, USE AS A FRONT WHEEL ONLY
Now thats some creativity, ill try the Vaseline and jbweld.
For the axles, i dont think heat is my problem, but im gonna try a heat gun first as i dont think my folks like the idea of skateboard parts near the kitchen lol. Its when i need to unscrew it. I think the clearance is pretty tight and with the loctite, it could possibly create a seal not letting air into the space inside the axle seat when trying to unscrew the axle. I could use 2 nuts locking against each other which admittedly I’ve tried and is a pain in the ass or use pliers and mess up the axle clearances for the bearings. Maybe some sandpaper will fix that.
Its an old issue which i dont think happens in the current batches but im staying away from tb110s from that incident onwards jic and there are many big wheels options nowadays. Heres a link to other people’s tb delams, cant take pics rn. TB110 Delam fix (hopefully) - #48 by Shawnl55
A decent option may be the new cloudwheels fe. I didnt like the narrow contact patch of the originals and thought the foam was a gimmick but the 120mm is something id like about it. I thought of getting those as a cheaper alternative to the 125s if i really wanted a few more mph. Btw how much would be the adapters anyway? Radium says they make em for the M1.
