Ive got a flipsky dual 6.6 pro have around 160km on it so far going good. Shipping to aus for me they were fast like I ordered monday and got it at the end of the week. I have the first batch of vx2 and haven’t even touched it got me the other one with km/h and its a solid remote
@DavidC
Then it appears that the MCU is dead, it will need to be replaced.
I would recommend contacting one of the DRV wizards.
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So I actually have an update on my FSESC 6.6 unit! Their support just sent me a video of my unit working after a repair. Not sure if it’s started shipment back yet, but they said it was a locked microcontroller on the slave half. I have an STLink and had tried to flash it, but unsuccessfully. I asked what flasher they used. Hopefully I’ll be able just fix it myself next time if it happens again.
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@Slade did you get 0V on 3.3V-GND too?
I have a question : can Metr Pro harm the (v)esc?
The dead side was connected to the Metr Pro module. I recently switched from my Android to my Apple mobile phone because my android version was too old and did not accept new Metr Pro updates. I experienced a lot of Metr App disconnections with Apple. I also updated Metr Pro module the times before. Yet, I don’t use Metr to write in (v)esc (modes function). It proves nothing but I just wonder.
I’m currently dealing with Flipsky customer service and they answer fast.
Something caused the MCU to see high voltage, this can either arise from poor wire management (in my case) or debris getting inside the ESC and shorting connections.
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Ok, I removed heatshrinks to check everything :
ESC working side : 
ESC dead side : 
(OF COURSE THERE WAS AN HEAT SHRINK THERE)
Very weird! Sensor cable got kind of glued to red phase wire. Maybe red phase wire came to short with some sensor little wire. Actually it’s like this 4mm banana connector design grinded plastic protection of the sensor wire!!! Latest jump was fatal to it. 
So it’s unlikely Flipsky fault.
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Glad you actually sourced the problem instead of just blaming Flipsky.
I’ve seen ppl literally admit to water getting into their enclosure in one thread, and then create another one to bitch about their busted ESC, saying it’s a “quality” issue (and then go on to bash the ESC vendor until the end of time). This is a DIY hobby and there are SO MANY things you can do wrong.
You get the added benefit of fixing your problem and not blowing the next one for the same reason.
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That’ll do it.
For me it, the battery repeatedly pushed my throttle wires up against a sharp edge of the frame, eventually nicked through the insulation and it came into contact with the throttle voltage meter sense wire.
I blew up three ESCs before I finally realized the problem Dx.
Spent $60 fixing them by buying new STM32F405RG chips and some chip quik, that stuff is magic.
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Update: Did a chargeback through paypal. After a week of flipsky begging me to cancel it and saying I could “complain to their superior” if I wasn’t happy I got all of my money back. Never buying flipsky again. I think I’m gonna buy an amazon focbox unity.
I’m enjoying my new freedom though. Already bought torqueboards 6355s and I’m looking forwards to finally having my board back on the road after months of waiting
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They are refusing to help me repair the board now and they are ignoring my messages about the motors I sent back being broken. Everytime I tell them what’s wrong they say that the motors are OK (The motors are separated from the shafts).
I’m gonna keep the refund, I’m done trying to work with flipsky.
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lmao
“complain to superior and get a full refund if you are still not happy”
or
“do nothing and let paypal give me back all my money guaranteed”
tough call
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Ive been dealing with my credit card company trying to get a charge back. Flipsky lied to my credit card company and said I didn’t send the esc back. I have had to dispute the dispute because they are liars. Im glad I had the emails saying they received the esc. Otherwise I’d be fucked. This was after supplying the tracking number to the CC company.
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That sucks! Paypal was really easy, I filed with them a week ago, and a week later I have my money back.
I still hate paypal though, for the multiple times they’ve allowed me to be scammed as a seller
Best of luck with shitsky
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good thing you got that tracking number!
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So I finally got the refurbished dual ESC back, and currently having issues getting it set up again. The slave side isn’t bricked anymore, I can connect to it/run FOC detection just fine and get the motors to spin upon both sides in setup, but the slave is still not properly taking commands from the master side. After over 4 months of headaches, if it doesn’t work really soon here I’m just going to put my build on hold till Torqueboards releases their vesc 6s and hope those get good initial reviews.
I’m in the bay area, socpart of me in considering just taking it to the bae sk8 meetup and seeing if someone is willing to lend guidance.
No I was getting proper volts on the nonworking slave side. Flipsky told me mine had a locked/bricked drive chip. I asked for explicit clarification if they meant the 3 phase drv chip or the MCU, but didn’t get response. I’m assuming it was the drv they’re referring to. They said they were able to fix it using the same stlink instructions they sent to me in a docx file even though I wasn’t able to get it to work
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The STM32F405RG is the MCU that needs firmware programmed on it. They probably just replaced the chip entirely.
Flipsky has better QC rolls on their singles, avoid duals from anyone.
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Can you not disable the internal CANBUS and use each side as a separate unit? Then just use split PWM to see if that works
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