Hey fucks.
I might be retired from commercial esk8, but I still like designing shit for DIY. Sometimes people see one of my designs and ask how they can get one. Here you go. This is how.
DISCLAIMER
All of the designs/products contained within this sale thread should be considered “beta/prototypes,” for testing/experimentation purposes only. I make no claims to the safety or reliability of any of this. Use at your own risk. No refunds or returns.
This is an outlet for my esk8 creativity first and foremost. As everyone knows, there’s no fucking money in esk8. With that in mind, you’re going to notice a distinct lack of fucks-given in this thread. A lot of this shit is “source xyz component yourself chump” or “lol figure it out” or whatever. You’ll get the idea. DIY is good for you.
Urethane Airless Tire Inserts
Are you tired of getting flats? Do you want to improve your range? Do you like the connection to the road of urethane, but the grip and comfort of pneumatics? Have you tried other airless tires and been disappointed?
Then look no further!
Details
These are urethane inserts, made from thermo-set cast urethane so they can not melt (unlike 3d printed inserts/wheels). The inserts are pressed into the tire and locked in by the friction of the hub, holding them securely even under extremely hard braking and acceleration. Tested by my 300lb (135kg) ass and my 8000W board.
They give you most of the benefits of urethane wheels (no flats, excellent connection to the road, great efficiency, low rolling resistance, etc), as well as many of the benefits of pneumatics (all the grip of your rubber tires, size, safety in the rain, etc.). They’re also reusable, unlike tubes! When you wear out a set of tires, simply pop these inserts out and put them in your next set. The tire protects them from damage, so they are unlikely to tear/chunk like a urethane wheel.
Never buy tubes again!
Hoyt 5in Tires
Price:
- $100 for 4pcs urethane inserts
- Price does not include shipping
Options:
- Solid: best for rolling resistance and efficiency, worse for comfort.
- Holes: best for comfort, worse for rolling resistance/efficiency (though still better than pneumatics). May also be more prone to splitting/tearing/chunking when installing or removing them from the tire. Be careful.
Compatible Wheels:
- Hoyt5 wheels, both the old silver and new black (tested/confirmed)
Message me to purchase! Please put your username in the subject line.
Hoyt 7in Tires
Price:
- $125 for 4pcs urethane inserts
- Price does not include shipping
Options:
- Solid: best for rolling resistance and efficiency, worse for comfort.
- Holes: best for comfort, worse for rolling resistance/efficiency (though still better than pneumatics). May also be more prone to splitting/tearing/chunking when installing or removing them from the tire. Be careful.
Compatible Wheels:
- Hoyt7 wheels (tested/confirmed)
Message me to purchase! Please put your username in the subject line.
CST 190x50mm Tires
Price:
- $125 for 4pcs urethane inserts
- Price does not include shipping
Options:
- Solid: best for rolling resistance and efficiency, worse for comfort.
- Holes: best for comfort, worse for rolling resistance/efficiency (though still better than pneumatics). May also be more prone to splitting/tearing/chunking when installing or removing them from the tire. Be careful.
Compatible Wheels:
- Trampa Superstar/Sunmate wheels (tested/confirmed)
- MBS Rockstar 2 wheels (Not tested, geometries match)
- Other wheels with ~94mm tire ID, and ~35mm bead-to-bead distance. Test to confirm.
Message me to purchase! Please put your username in the subject line.
Other Tires
Want urethane inserts for a tire/wheel I dont already offer? I can make that happen. Here’s the deal:
Step 1: Design
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You send me two tires. Brand new or gently used, not clapped out and bald. I’ll cut one open to match the inside profile of the tire perfectly. The other one will be kept intact to test fitment of my prototypes. You wont get these back.
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You’ll need to be able to take pictures/measurements of the wheel hub you want to use, cus that matters for insert engagement. Or you can send me a single hub, which you will get back.
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In exchange for those tires, I wont charge you anything for my design/prototyping/mold making labor.
Step 2: Testing/Confirmation
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You buy the first set of inserts for just the material and shipping cost. You test them out and confirm everything works how you want. This is when I’ll ship your wheel back to you, if you sent me one.
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If you want me to make changes, you’ll need to pay me for the labor to redesign the mold, and for a new set of inserts to be cast.
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After that, I’ll own the molds and will make/sell the inserts to whoever wants them for whatever I feel is a fair price. You dont own the design or molds. You dont get any ongoing discount. If you want some kind of product exclusivity or ongoing arrangement, that’s something we’ll have to negotiate case-by-case, and it will cost you. Message me.
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No promises on timeline. You’re not paying me for the design work, so I’ll do it in my own time. I wont ask you to pay me until there’s a set of inserts ready to ship to you. But dont expect to see your tires/wheel back anytime soon.
Message me to get started! Please put your username in the subject line.
Disclosures
Couple drawbacks to be aware of, for full disclosure:
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Comfort of urethane inserts is always going to be less than pneumatics. They’ll still roll over everything just as well, but you’ll feel it more.
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Installing and removing urethane inserts is hard. You’re probably going to think its impossible when you first try. Its not impossible. I wont ship an insert that I’m not capable of installing myself. So you can do it too.
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You may need clamps and/or long screws to install the tire w/insert onto the wheel. This is normal, and how they are designed to work.
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Tires are not included in this listing.
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These inserts are only tested to work on the tires and wheels they are designed for. Using them on other tires/wheels is not recommended. Using wheel-wideners is not recommended.
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No warranties, guarantees, or refunds. This is an experimental DIY product. Use at your own risk.
Installation Instructions
To install an insert into a tire:
You’ll need the insert, a tire, and a sturdy pry tool. Flathead screwdriver works, but be careful not to stab/rip the insert with the sharp end.
Step 1:
Feed the insert into the tire from one end.
Step 2:
Continue feeding it in all the way around. Very important to press the insert fully into the tire as far as it will go, so it expands to the full diameter of the tire easier.
Step 3:
You’ll get to roughly this point and wont be able to press it in any further by hand.
Step 4:
Wedge your pry tool in like this.
Step 5:
Brace the pry tool against the inserted end, and lever the pry tool against the loose end. Be very careful not to stab/rip the insert with your pry tool.
Step 6:
Continue working the loose end further and further in, until it pops into place. This may take a while, and be quite frustrating. It may seem like you’re not making any progress. Keep doing the lever action, and eventually it will work.
Step 7:
Press everything fully into the tire. Work the tire/insert until it sits fully flush. You may have to use your pry tool in the slot between the ends of the insert to get everything seated properly.
Step 8:
Done and ready to assemble the wheel. Follow these steps in reverse to disassemble, or use wire cutters to cut the tire apart.
To install the tire/insert onto a wheel:
Step 1:
Line up the halves of the hubs on either side of the tire. You wont be able to press the hub halves together because the insert will be in the way. An interference fit with the hub is part of how the inserts stay locked on.
Step 2:
Put an extra long bolt through the hub halves, and thread it into the nut by hand just a couple turns to get it started. I use 50mm long bolts for this. Repeat for the other bolts so all of them are started in the nuts (and not cross-threaded).
Step 3:
Using a hex key, carefully and slowly tighten each bolt. Work your way around the bolts doing a little bit at a time on each one before moving to the next. The goal is to keep the hub halves as parallel as possible as they come together. I dont recommend using a drill for this, as it’s easy to over-do one screw and bind up the whole operation.
Step 4:
As you’re tightening, make sure that the hub halves are lined up with the tire/insert and not pinching anything. I dont recommend using any kind of lubricant, as you need the hub to grab tightly on the tire/insert.
Step 5:
When all the bolts are fully tightened and the hub halves are clamped all the way together, remove one of your long bolts. Replace it with a normal length bolt, and tighten that down snug. Then remove the next long bolt, etc. Repeat until you have replaced all the long bolts.
Accessory Smart Switch
This little device takes full pack voltage (10s~20s) in and outputs full pack voltage output when it gets a 5V signal. What’s that useful for?
Details
More than you might think.
Say you have a voltage meter, but you dont want it to be on all the time. This will make sure your voltage meter only turns on when your VESC turns on. Or say you have lights which run on full pack voltage. They’ll now switch on/off automatically when your VESC does. Pretty simple.
Maybe you have a buck converter running some accessories. Buck converters are notorious for having high idle-draw current. Leaving them hooked up to your battery for a long time, even if they have an “off” function, can quickly drain your pack to an unsafe voltage. The Accessory Smart Switch will fully disconnect that buck converter when your VESC is off, ensuring your buck cant drain your pack. The Accessory Smart Switch itself has essentially zero idle-draw current.
Now say that you have a Puck2 remote and receiver… The Puck2 has an accessory port on the receiver, which outputs 5V when you toggle the “T” button. I wonder why the good folks at Hoyt designed that in? That’s right. You can toggle this accessory circuit with a single button push on your remote. Use this toggle your lights. Use it for a horn. Use it for whatever you can imagine!
Tech Specs
“Battery In”
- 10s~20s power input via XT30.
- When this port has battery voltage, the red LED will turn on, indicating that the supply side of the circuit is energized (it’s kinda dim at lower voltages, that’s normal).
- If the red LED is off, then there is something wrong with your battery voltage source (for example, if you hooked this up to the protected output of your BMS and the BMS is in a protection state).
“5V In”
- 5V signal input via JST-PH.
- When this port has 5V, the yellow LED will turn on, indicating that the signal portion of the circuit is energized.
- If the yellow LED is off, then there’s something wrong with your 5V signal source.
- Connect this to the 5V and GND anywhere on your VESC, and the Accessory Smart Switch will toggle on/off when the VESC does.
- This input is fully isolated from the rest of the circuit, there is no way for it to back-feed into your VESC.
- Connect this to the switched accessory port on your Puck2 receiver, and the Accessory Smart Switch can be toggled with the T button on your Puck2.
- Connect this to whatever other source of 5V/GND you want. You get the idea.
“Battery Out”
- Full battery voltage output (same as whatever you put into “Battery In”) via XT30 and JST-PH.
- 5A maximum current draw through the Accessory Smart Switch.
- When this port has voltage, the green LED will turn on, indicating that the output side of the circuit is energized.
- If the green LED is off, first check that the other two LEDs are on. If the yellow and red LEDs are both on, but the green LED is not, then there’s something wrong with your Accessory Smart Switch and it likely needs to be replaced.
This circuit is designed to be really basic, minimal, and cheap. It doesnt have any fancy reverse polarity protection or anything like that. If you plug the wrong things into the wrong ports, the circuit will just break. Dont fuck up.
Price info
Minimum order quantity is 5pcs, but due to manufacturing quantity discounts higher quantities are much cheaper per unit than lower quantities. Message me and tell me the quantity you’re looking for (or a couple of quantities to compare) and I’ll give you a quote.
These will be manufactured and shipped directly to you as they come from the manufacturer. I dont touch them. They should be fully assembled and functional, but if there’s any issues (i.e. a unit is DOA or made wrong or whatever) I take no responsibility for that. Factor that into the number you want to purchase. So far, of the ~250 of these I have ordered, I’ve only seen 2 DOA units.
Because they are being shipped straight to you, they wont have the heat shrink you see in the picture. That’s just basic 30mm wide clear heat shrink which you can source yourself. Dont use adhesive lined heat shrink!
Boardnamics Gear Drive Handle
This is a pretty slick, cheap, and robust way to add a comfy handle to any board with Boardnamics gear drives (M1AT and M1 available).
How to buy
M1 link coming soon
This is a link to the SendCutSend marketplace. Place your order there. SendCutSend will make the part(s) and ship them directly to you. I’m not involved at all.
That’s all I’m selling you, you can source the rest yourself.
You’ll need:
- 1x threaded rod. 3/8ths (or 10mm) for M1AT drives, 1/4in (or 6mm) for M1 drive. Cheapest is probably your local hardware store. Buy a rod and cut it down yourself. Length is going to depend on your trucks/drivetrain.
- 4x nylock nuts that match your threaded rod. If you want something lower profile, look up “nylock jam nuts” in whatever size/thread pitch you need.
- 25mm wide heat shrink in your favorite color (optional)
- 1x 3d printed TPU handle (optional)
- 6x 16mm long gear drive case screws (to account for the ~3mm thickness of the handle plate).
How to Build
The order of operations for assembling this handle is kinda funky.
- Measure between the mounts, add the length of the nuts, and cut the rod to length. Clean up the ends so they’re not sharp and so the threads are all clear.
- Thread the TPU grip onto the rod. You’ll either need to grab the rod with vice grips, or you can thread two nuts on and snug them against each other to create a fixture you can drive with a wrench/socket/drill. If you drive it with a drill, be careful you dont build up so much friction that you melt the printed grip.
- Put the heat shrink onto the rod on either side of the grip, but do not shrink it yet
- Thread the two inner nuts onto the rod ends to cut threads into the nylon.
- Remove them and re-thread them onto the rod ends backwards (nylon first).
- Pull one gear drive off the hanger so you can insert the rod between the mount plates. Replace that gear drive, and make sure both drives are fully pressed into the hangers.
- Adjust the inner nuts outwards until they just barely touch the mount plates. You dont want to put any spreading/bending force on the mounts. Make sure the rod is centered between the mounts, and that there is enough thread sticking out both sides to fully engage the nylon in both outer nuts.
- Thread on the outer nuts to lock everything in place. Again, make sure you’re not bending the mounts.
- Tug the heat shrink in place, trim off any excess, and shrink it down.
All done!
Hoyt Rosa Handle/Bash Guard
Do you have Rosa trucks? Are you sick of your handle/bashguard always rattling loose, the tiny mounting screws stripping out, etc?
Details
Me too. So I made this. It looks brutal because it is. This design was fueled entirely by rage, after the 17th fucking time I retightened/loctited/stripped/etc the tiny fucking screws in the Rosa mounts.
It’s a replacement handle/bashguard specifically for Rosa trucks (though it may work on other trucks, I dunno). Rather than threading into tiny m4 holes in the aluminum mounts like the stock handle does, this sandwiches between the motor and the mount, allowing you to lock each plate in place with 8 screws each!
It uses laser cut stainless steel plates from SendCutSend, and some threaded rod/nuts from your local hardware store.
How to buy
This is a link to the SendCutSend marketplace. Place your order there. SendCutSend will make the part(s) and ship them directly to you. I’m not involved at all.
That’s all I’m selling you, you can source the rest yourself.
You’ll need:
- 3x 270mm long 3/8ths (or 10mm) threaded rod. Cheapest way is to go to your local hardware store, buy a rod, and cut it down yourself.
- 12x nylock nuts that match your threaded rod. Get these while you’re at the hardware store if you want. If you want something lower profile, look up “jam nuts” in whatever size/thread pitch you need.
- 1m of 25mm wide heat shrink in your favorite color.
- 1x 3d printed TPU handle (optional)
- 8x slightly longer motor mount screws (to account for the ~3mm thickness of the handle plate between the motor and the motor mount)
How to Build
- Assemble the handle together like this.
- Unbolt your old handle, and throw it straight in the trash
- Unbolt your motors and remove them from the mounts temporarily. You dont have to disconnect any motor wires for this.
- Put the assembled handle in between your motor mounts and confirm everything is the correct distance apart. Adjust the distance between the plates by loosening/tightening the nuts. Be sure the nuts are snug against each other, so there’s no tension/bending force in the plates/handle assembly.
- Feed the motors through the hole in the handle plate and motor mount, then bolt them in place. Bolt through the motor mount and handle plate to lock everything in place.
- You may need to adjust your motor pulley’s position on the motor shaft to account for the thickness of the handle plate. If the pulley is hanging a few mm past the end of the motor shaft, that’s fine.
DuckGrips Universal Esk8 Handle
The people have asked for it… and asked for it, and asked for it. And there’s finally a way for me to make this without ending up with a bunch of unsold duck dicks in my basement. So here you go.
Details
This is a mostly universal esk8 handle that bolts onto your truck hardware, either as an antisink plate (above the deck) or a riser (below the deck). Personally I think my other handle designs are better, but people havent stopped bugging me about these in 5 years, so 
If you have ideas for a shape/design that you want, let me know and I might make it.
How to buy
DuckGrips v6.duck coming soon
DuckGrips v6.dick coming soon
This is a link to the SendCutSend marketplace. Place your order there. SendCutSend will make the part(s) and ship them directly to you. I’m not involved at all.
SoftGrip v2 by BenjaminF | Download free STL model | Printables.com
Here’s the print file for the TPU grip.
eMTB Box Mounting System
This is a simple and robust top-box mounting system for eMTBs. Ignore the rust in the picture. The version i’m selling uses stainless steel.
Details
This is a really simple system. It uses a plate of stainless steel, that has hex pockets for captive nuts. Using m5 nylock flange nuts upside down gives you the benefits of nylock, while the flange spreads the load through the plate into the box.
With proper length bolts, this creates an extremely low profile mount inside and outside the box. Using countersunk head screws on the underside of the deck makes them flush with the bottom surface of the deck, preventing high-centering when riding off curbs or over roots and rocks.
Shoot some silicone around the bolt holes before tightening the plate in place, and the silicone will squish fully around each bolt/nut sealing everything. That’s what you’re seeing in that first picture above, btw.
Be sure not to over-tighten the bolts and damage your box or your deck. Adding something like stiff rubber or foam between the box and the deck can help to distribute the load if your box has feet keeping its bottom surface from contacting the deck. Use your best judgement.
How to buy
This is a link to the SendCutSend marketplace. Place your order there. SendCutSend will make the part(s) and ship them directly to you. I’m not involved at all.
Source quality M5 flanged nylock nuts and M5 countersunk bolts from wherever you like. I suggest mcmaster.
Hoyt Rosa/Rosita Mount Tension Reinforcement
The stock solution to keep these bolts from digging into the aluminum motor mounts was a couple of washers… which were only slightly larger diameter than the bolt heads 
Details
This is a larger stainless steel washer plate which replaces those insufficient washers. It spreads the load better, wont deform into the slot like the washers do, and wont allow the bolt to dig into the mounts. With these in place, you can crank down on those bolts a lot more securely, and they wont loosen over time as easily as the stock solution.
How to buy
This is a link to the SendCutSend marketplace. Place your order there. SendCutSend will make the part(s) and ship them directly to you. I’m not involved at all.
Boardnamics GT3 Wheel captive nut inserts
Do you have boardnamics wheels? Are you annoyed that the nuts are not captive, and also that they are in a recessed pocket so they’re a huge pain to access with anything besides a socket?
Details
These are laser-cut aluminum plates which slot perfectly into the recessed pocket on the wheels, and capture the m4 nut. Throw a drop of superglue on these and you now have wheels which can be serviced with just a single hex key. Leave your socket wrench at home!
How to buy
This is a link to the SendCutSend marketplace. Place your order there. SendCutSend will make the part(s) and ship them directly to you. I’m not involved at all.
Stainless Steel Antisink Plates
They’re thick, they’re strong, they’re not countersunk.
Details
Not sure what else to say. I made these cus I was sick of shitty flimsy aluminum antisink plates from amazon that buckle the first time I used them. I also dont need some fancy CNC plate, not that there’s anything wrong with those.
If you have ideas for a shape/design that you want, let me know and I might make it.
How to buy
2pcs Stainless Antisink Plates - Black Powder Coated
Skate Fast Eat Ass Antisink Plates coming soon
This is a link to the SendCutSend marketplace. Place your order there. SendCutSend will make the part(s) and ship them directly to you. I’m not involved at all.
That’s it so far!
I’ll be adding more stuff here periodically as I design more things. I’m thinking of this like the old guy who builds birdhouses in his retirement to keep his mind busy, so even if no one has any interest in this shit I’ll keep at it.
If you have any questions or comments about anything, dont hesitate to ask. If you got any of this stuff from me, I’d love to hear your feedback in this thread!
-Benjamin
After Hoyt went under I took the development from there on my own.
