Agreed.
It’s really just a question to help with my pack design. Being an esk8 noob means I would go airborne at braking levels far below what you guys can handle.
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Ramp up/down times greatly help you handle both sudden and harder than usual braking. They also help smooth out signal cutouts at speed
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How does that work? Charger stays on forever?
Or you see the “aging sag” after you take it off the charger and let it settle for a while?
I had cell damage (result of water) one one of my p groups. It was like 1.2 volts?
I forced it back up with a “dumb” charger, but it would not go past 3.8 V, even after 1h (yes i had it in a safe space dw) and it did not even get hot or anything. After this they lost charge completely to 1 volts again so i disassembled the pack.
So i think ur right, they sag down again. This is (i think) what causes cell drift aswell right?
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Hmm… i had some new 30q cells in a 12s3p that would drop to ~49.5v in minutes off the charger, even fully balanced, all fancy. Now 12s4p vtc6 is rock solid at 50.4~.5v and they have taken more than 2000km abuse.
I think your cells were just done for, nothing to do with aging. They may need very slow charging to nominal, like, days of it, and even with that a lot won’t recover and the rest will be severely behind
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no i know, my cells were ded, but its the same behavior i meant yours have, Just a different cause (my cells had 500 km probably?), and thats why i feel the 30q is kinda a frail cell. My friends his pack has 200 km and they already show that they only charge till 41,8V, but that can also be the bms?
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yeah i use the daly bms too, charge only though. I measured it with my fluke from the main terminals so no fancy screenshot.
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Is that enclosure aluminium, or plastic? Do you have a product name or sellers link? It just what I am looking for…!
It’s injected abs.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081LZYNHN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uSzIFbEVKDPZX
Search up diy junction box on the Google and search away. There are so many options. My last enclosure used was a pvc junction box and it’s a tank.
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Yes I 've googled a lot, but yours seemed to be aluminium and the right size to my eyes and those are expensive usually. Good to hear your plastic boxes hold out well, guess thats the route I’ll go.
Thanks!
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Ahh nah not aluminum unfortunately. I did consider putting an aluminum sheet across the bottom to dispense heat a bit. Not sure if that would even do anything haha
Probably will use aluminiub slab through the plastic for heatsinking. Enclosed it is not adding much to cooling. But really have no clue if the Unity gets warm anyway, if it is only for buffering peaks then inside enclosure should be fine. I have no hills for climbing or braking so maybe heatsink is over-done anyways.
I’m not sure that’s the case.
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I’m thinking the same thing…
A loss in capacity on its own wouldn’t affect the voltage a pack would charge to. Higher internal resistance can cause some chargers to turn off sooner than would have before and that would result in a lower resting pack voltage.
Increased cell leakage current, inevitable as they age, could cause the pack voltage to drop faster over time but wouldn’t be an issue if checking the voltage soon after charging was done.
The charger could be at fault here too…its charge voltage could have drifted. Unlikely but can’t be ignored as a possible cause IMO.
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Can anyone recommend vesc breaks settings pleas. My board has Flipsky FSESC 4.12, single 6374 motor and 10s3p (Molicel P26A) battery.
I did an initial setup of course I Forgot to take photos and don’t remember anything. The breaks feel way to soft. I’m not riding like crazy, but it takes way too long to stop. I read a bunch of how much is safe for the battery ect. Of course, I want the battery to be safe and last as long as possible, but I don’t want to get into a situation where I cant break for a stupid driver ect. There is a lot of those where I live. 
Set the brakes so they are strong enough.
Within reason, you’re not going to upset the battery. If you were to skitch with your brakes on trying to stop the car, that’s another story.
At high speed or low speed?
When I’m doing around 25 kmh (my average speed) the breaks are ok and I decrease in speed enough. Haven tried full brake with those speeds yet. I guess I’m more disappointed with the brakes at low speed. Can I adjust that with the Throttle Curve?
Try lowering “Motor Current Max Brake” (aka: motor min) to -80% of “Motor Current Max” (motor max)
So, for example, if motor max is 75A, then set motor min to -60A
Do not set motor min to a positive number.
See if that helps, if not, then post screenshots of your current settings
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Thx agin, that did the trick. I have very good brakes now. Maybe a little to good. 
We were testing the board on a parking loot with two buddies of mine and one of us actually managed to put a flat spot on my orange caguamas
This are my settings at the moment.Thinking of lowering them just a smidge for the longevity of the flipsky esc and also because I really don’t need that kind of acceleration and top speed.
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