To be fair I feel like there just isn’t much info on the remotes currently available.
Frequency hopping makes too much sense to not do, so I would lean towards most remotes doing that, but to find that in writing I think is impossible.
I think a good example is the Puck and how its bascially the #1 choice for most people and no one knows what the t button does, and doing research on it wont give you an answer either.
Its like all the good remotes come in smaller batches/companies and less info and the worse remotes come from larger companies and with more info
Today I turned too hard and stumbled off the board. My initial reaction made me almost drop the remote, but then since I almost let go of the remote I could not break and the board hit the curb, getting a scratch.
If I had a wired remote that provided some support for itself a bit like the TLT board it would have been harder to lose grip on remote and control of the board.
Off topic from hardwired remotes but on topic for cutout talk.
Looking at the gt2b internals that gave me cutouts at esk8con I’m 99% sure it was due to the battery wires being pinched and possibly disconnecting from the lipo pad inside the mod.
This was likely caused by me either during install or somehow the remote getting damaged during travel to the event.
It would explain why one of my gt2b mods was rock solid during the week and one had issues immediately. I didn’t have the backup remote with me at the track so wasn’t able to confirm it in the moment. And the goal was to get back up and running anyways, not figure out why I was having issues. Just figure out how to not have them.
Swapping to a brand new gt2b remote and receivers took care of the issues and got me rolling. Zero issues to report after this.
Im happy I had some issues (that didn’t cause a crash to me or others) as it pushed me to look at other remote options. So far I’m very happy with the MT12.
Regarding the GT2B, i can confirm at least one instance where my regular GT2B remote had cutouts in a specific location where my hoyt was also giving me the Low RF signal buzz.
I was going to say that one of the pros of a hardwired remote is that you don’t have worry about dropping it in the toilet… but I don’t think you’ll have worry about dropping that thing in a toilet accidentally I don’t even think it would fit.
I am looking for one of these, or a way to do a conversion. I have an E-Glide Dewey Weber I want to get running. I just wanted a cool old electric board but it looks like I bought a project.
I don’t even think it would fit.
