Got my Li-Po batteries. How would I connect it in series?

3.6 resting
usually when lipos are at 3.0V per under load, they recover to 3.6-3.7V after they sit around fo r lil bit

I wouldn’t want it to go to 3.0v

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vesc monitors Ah draw

3.0 under load*

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So I’m going for the 10s BMS from lithiumbatterypcb. Can anyone tell me how it all wires up, I find looking on a thread that the explanation in words is confusing asf for some reason, pictures will help better in my opinion.

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you did not read all 15K posts in The battery builders club Gosh I am offended

try this

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Just got my ‘correct’ wire and bullet connectors for the BMS…just in case

… bullet connectors?…
where do they go?

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in the soldering gun.

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Don’t you need to solder bullet connectors onto the two black wires on the ltt BMS?

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XT30s

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I got XT-90’s

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For just charging xt30 can handle it fine, I don’t think there’s a problem with xt90 they’re just bulkier and more expensive if you were buying loads. It’s also unlikely that a small ~4A charger would have XT90s


This is the charger and port I gotten

Ah gotcha, so the XT90s go between the BMS and the externally mounted charge port? As I said above, there’s no huge problem other than being big and overkill for that. I’m trying to see if anyone in the thread has already emphasised the Fuse Your Charge Port mantra

Edit: if you’re using 12AWG for charging that’s definitely overkill. If it’s for discharge that’s fine, but using big wire that can carry a lot of current for something intended to be a low current application like charging can be a little risky because if something goes wrong (your charge port gets shorted out, or the charger bites the dust) it can be more destructive. If you already have it and don’t want to wait for or buy smaller stuff that’s probably ok, but you need to make sure there’s a fuse between the charge port and the battery that will blow at a low enough current to protect in case of a fault

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Oh no I’m not using the 12 awg for charging. Using it as a battery harness to connect in series, I got smaller gauge wire like 14 or smaller. Got to check, I could just solder those wires to the charge port, for the charging I can set a discharge rate on VESC took for when the charger to stop providing the charge?

*VESCtool

This is a bit confusing but in short no. VESC cannot control the charger, the only thing that stops charging is the BMS or the charger itself.

What do you mean set a discharge rate? That would only be for when you’re running the board.

Yes you definitely could but it’s less modular so assembly and disassembly are a bit of a pain in the ass. If the port is screwed to the enclosure, and soldered to the BMS, it’s harder to move or do anything with either the enclosure or the BMS/battery assembly separately from each other. Not a huge deal because the batteries can be disconnected from the BMS, but it’s not something I’d like to do often because there’s always a risk of plugging stuff back in the wrong way.

That’s still pretty big, 18 should be loads for 2A. And either way you definitely need a fuse.

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Oh I thought you can just set a certain voltage for the charging to stop. What you mean by a fuse? I got a anti spark switch. Yea I definitely got to check what I have around I know for sure I got smaller wires

No. VESC sits between battery and motors, so all it can control is when power to the motors is cut off. It will stop you from over discharging a battery if set up right because if the battery voltage drops too low it stops drawing power but has nothing to do with charging.

BMS and charge wires sit between battery and charger. Those two are the only things that can stop a charger from charging. When the BMS detects that the cells’ charging voltage has been reached, it disconnects the charger.

Again, the anti spark sits between the battery and VESC/motors. If it’s not between the charger and the battery, it can’t stop the charger. A fuse is a fuse? Idk what else to say, it’s a small device that blows up in a safe way to disconnect a circuit if you exceed its rated current. If the charger went nuts and started putting out a really high output, or the leads were shorted together, then the fuse blows and you’re a lot less likely to have a fire.

Not to be a dick but you really need to read more and be quite careful about this.

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