🌴 Go-FOC DV6 / PRO <High Current Dual ESC >

Trampa has signal issues in some circumstances and uses triple A cells, puck is damn expensive

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but its worth it imo

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Check flipsky VX1 a ton of us here are using it with no issues…

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I’m going to print a dummy and see how it feels in hand if I like it I’ll get it. I want a quality remote.

Vx1 is good, Vx2 is decent, I have the Maytech v2 which is awesome, Gt2b mods work well

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Do you order directly from maytech.cn?

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Not exactly, @kevingraehl ordered a bunch and I bought mine from him

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I sold them all. Made enough to pay for mine.

I love it. No dropouts yet. Just doesn’t play nicely with focbox unless you’re on 5x firmware

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Do you mean Unity?

Congrats haha it was quite the ordeal & waiting game

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The first batch has been sent. Cheers~😋

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Nice! I’m have order one from first batch! Can’t wait to receive it. I have some noob question would like to ask:
1 - What is the VESC tool’s firmware should be use with it?
2 - Can bus connector can be switch off or its always on? is the a official master side and slave side or can be either way? (cause I see the layout slighly diffrence w only 1 can bus)
3 - Both side can be programing at the same time with can bus connected or it has to do seperately?
4 - I’m getting a Flipsky vx1 remote is this should be connected to the board first time I turn it on or it has to be programed first?

Sorry I have a lot of noob question since it’s my first build, its so much headache to choose a vesc and so far this one have no record of break (cause you just ship it:D) so I would love to be sure to make no mistake! If there is any tutorial for programing would be great since I have to watch video from another brand which might not be the same???

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I ordered one today to replace a flipshite that just shit the bed.
2020_09_18_17_19_58
again…

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Firmware version 5.1.
Canbus is already connected internally. Two ESCs can be programmed via CAN.
You can refer to the operation video of filpsky.

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3- beyond the wizard, use can forward to program each side individually. For example put 20 battery amps on side 1, apply/write, use can (on pc is bottom left) and put 20 battery amps on side 2, apply/write. This is the process for all settings unfortunately.

4- generally a good idea to plug the receiver after you finished motor detection, although for me, shutting down the remote seems to be enough

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Oh btw the heatsinks @YUTW123 makes are great, the one on my GoFoc retro is great!

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Do you have a recommended max battery amps / max motor amps? I notice you said 100a phase was okay, definitely an impressive feat. Just put my order in, hope to have a build ready for it to drop into within 2 weeks.
@YUTW123

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Fair warning on my GoFoc retro, apparently the thermal cutoff was set to 60c and I ran into major thermal throttling the other day, only running my motors at 50 battery and 50 motor amps.

I don’t think the thermal cutoff is supposed to be that low but I do have the heatsink

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That’s a strange one. Running stock fw?