I’m on the computer trying to get 5.3 installed…
Wish me luck.
I had similar issues with 5.3FW. Had success hard wired into PC except for the remote input. I had to run the detection for my remote through my phone App over bluetooth otherwise I got this message too.
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You got the pro one as well?
Got the button working?
The button will turn the board on but it won’t turn it off. I know there’s a setting somewhere in the FW to do so but I haven’t tried to find it yet as I have a loop key as well.
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I think I got it…
Seems I got it working at this very moment.
Uses the PC to upload the special firmware for 5.03
Then the PC tool crashed.
Went over to the phone.
Ran detection ok.
Set up the ppm remote ok.
Set up the power to shut off after 5 minutes.
Which makes the button work.
I have everything plugged into the right side.
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Maybe you should have the BT module in the main/left side? I noticed mine would confuse vesc id’s when plugged into the right
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That is where I started it at…
So much weird shit happened while I was trying to do the set up when it has 6.0 and I was trying over the phone…
I had the blue tooth and controller on both sides.
Do you have the Pro version?
Which firmware are you running?
I have not taped everything down, so I could move it.
But I am also a little sketched out to do anything different since i just had it behave ok on a couple of tries.
Which side do you have the remote on? Are you running PPM?
Is your power button working?
I’m still waiting on my pro. This was with a d75. It was a lot less glitchy on 5.3 with the old vesctool and now with the new one Ive given up on using Bluetooth altogether. I ended up mounting a USB socket on my enclosure and only use bt to look at real-time data.
Sucks that it’s still an issue with the new firmware.
Please find the firmware of DV6 PRO here, and upload it through VESC TOOL custom firmware.
The previously released firmware 5.2, and the firmware included in the 6.00 vesc tool will also work, but the switch function will not work.
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Hey @YUTW123. In the past I ran two regular dv6s over CAN with GND CAN L and CAN H connected on 5.2FW. It ran reasonably well but was very underpowered compared to what I’m about to attempt.
I’ve since read numerous times that CAN L and CAN H is all that should be used. So now I’m a little confused. I’m very close to running my new 4wd race setup so would love a definitive answer if possible.
I’m about to connect an original DV6 pro (with no power button) with custom 5.3FW with a DV6 with regular FW.
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The previous DV6 P does not support the switch button, but it is still possible to use the firmware on the download page.
Regarding CAN communication, it is recommended to use shielded twisted-pair wires to connect the two ESCs (as shown in the picture). This can greatly improve signal stability
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That’s great. Thanks for the info. So this would mean just CAN H and CAN L 
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Shield connected to GND，will better
So that metal wrap should be connected to GND at each end?
Do you guys sell the bus cables like that?
I havnt started plugging mine into the pc yet so nows a good time to know if i need to source one of these
Jaycar (only for Ozzy peeps sorry) have this but it’s not twisted so not sure if as good?..
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Oh i know. That’s why i replied to u with that link haha. It was stated for everyone else
I’m curious why don’t we use this on all data/communication wires inside the enclosure?
Surely the power running through battery and phase wires is enough to cause EMI
I feel like wire shielding can even make some remotes more reliable.
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Geez it’d be nice if these things weren’t so buggy.
So 5.3 on mine. Didn’t touch that.
Motor detection all good, switch working. Unplug the computer put it all back together now switch doesn’t work.
Go into settings it’s set to always on. Don’t know why that changed. Try to change it to off after 10 with Bluetooth and now I get drv faults.
Reload the saved config and it drops one side. 
So I guess I’ll be opening it all up plugging in again and re doing firmware.
What’s up with this bullshit
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