As far as I know the failesafe of the puck is set to zero, so you are going to roll out with your board. Still can feel like a hard brake if you just accelerated before you lost the signal.
I‘d tag @JJHoyt@jack.luis they can tell you for sure what the puck failesafe is set to.
Because hoyt decided signal strength was the priority:
The Hoyt St Puck remote control is engineered with proprietary radio control technology that evades interference while maintaining stable receiver sensitivity. The transmitter channel hops every micro-second across 16 channels to deliver the most secure level of continuous connectivity.
Be aware that there not only signal drop outs, but also signal indifferences. I had that once happened in the city with my GT2b going full nuts out of nowhere. I did see that behavior as well on Trampas Wand multiple times, not sure if that’s a problem with the poti on the wand thou.
I also had it once happening that my puck got full throttle from time to time. It was winter at that point and salty water from the street came inside the shell which did cause the poti to give a faulty signal out.
This sounds very scary. Those ghostings are really a death trap.
The technical part of the puck seams legit, but the shape, lack of display/telemetry and the price are serious down sides.
If the shape is an issue for you, you can also just get the pcb and print your own shell. There are many different designs available. I’m sure there is one which will fit most of us under all those. The pcb is 59$, need to buy the receiver separately, but still than it’s ~90$ which isn’t too bad in my opinion.
The missing display is an argument, but the question is if it’s always needed. For people with a DaveGA or App that shows telemetry on their smart watch isn’t a need for a display on the remote.
I mean, everybody needs to set his/her priorities.
I‘d rather have no display and pay a bit more, than having a display, paying less but each ride I need to worry about cut outs.