I need some help with solar inverter specification. I know I’m more than a bit off-topic, but I have seen a couple people here talking about off-grid and solar.
It would be great if someone could pm for 5 minutes and help with the interpretation of pv access power vs pv input power and possibly over-panelling while staying in current/voltage limits.
In return I’ll get around to cleaning up and sharing some cad files.
Any recommendations for making a hole through some molded polypropylene with the least risk of it cracking? Figure with how much some of you mod cases you might have some tips. I’m leaning towards using a hot metal poker rather than drilling but open to ideas.
Trying to mount some dragan board toe hooks without drilling into my deck. Currently the plan is to mount them to one end of an anti sink plate and the other end to my truck hardware bolts like a cnc footstop. Again open to alternatives…Thought of a custom mounting plate but A-don’t know anyone who does that.. and B-even if I did I think a metal bracket much wider than a sink plate would dig into the contours of the deck, and possibly also end up being too thick.
so you want to put more holes into the toe hooks? if you’re worried about cracking from an aggressive drill bit, a soldering iron is probably a good idea. then take a razor knife and clean up the mess and make the hole look clean and flat again. i would have thought they would be nylon or gf nylon but the solution is the same i think.
if you want to get creative, just grab a piece of aluminum flat bar stock in 1/8 from the hardware store and mount them to it, then drill holes where you need to pass the truck hardware through the bar stock. if you have some counter sunk bolts to mount it - a counter sink bit isn’t that expensive to make everything sit nice and flush and can be done with a hand drill pretty easy. if you use some cardboard to test the positioning you can get exactly the right size of bar stock to do what yo need.
I’d skip the likely messy soldering iron and just run a regular drill bit in reverse. It’ll still cut through, just slower and it won’t risk biting into the plastic
@Pecos I may end up doing the bracket like you’re saying in the end. Initially that was the plan but then I talked myself out of it thinking if I did one piece I’d have to mount them too close to the nose/tail, and if I did 2 and overlapped them to make a T then it might be wobbly or dig into the deck. But I could line the bottom with foam. or possibly make the bracket mount on top of the toe hooks base rather than the bottom, and use some spacers to fill in the gap between the bracket and where I mount it to the sink plate. Top mounting should reduce stress on the toe hooks mounting plate too which would be good.
@glyphiks ahhh, yes that sounds much better than melting lol. I’m back to being on the fence on whether or not I should, but If i end up making a new hole I’ll definitely do that.
I also found some 2 hole anti sink bars in lengths for both front and side bolts, so I may try using those since I could put them at whatever angles I need to reach the existing mount slots. At least as a trial run to see if I even like them/where they’ll need to be placed.
The idea also crossed my mind to just buy 2 cnc footstops and mount them normally, then use the part your foot touches as a mounting bracket rather than making a bracket myself. I’ll need to get the dragan toe hooks in hand first to see the thickness of the mounting plate, but if it fits under the cnc footstop I think it could be a good option.
Edit: and if none of those options work I’m just gonna give up on finding the perfect footstop/toe hook and just bolt a bushing or two to a small L bracket, then bolt that to the cnc footstop, angle it to barely catch my shoe and call it a day.
I have a few and they are fine… just pla too…
I got it to kinda work. Mounting on top of the plate was the only way to get 2 bolts through, but that of courses raises the toe catch. Gonna ride with them a bit to see if I like them enough to bother trying anything else or if I want to just go back to the cnc footstop. There may also be clearance issues due to overhang once the bigger wheels are on but we’ll see.
I will say though..even just standing on it feeling it out, they are a very very nice medium between a footstop and something like a freebord open binding.
Edit- also now included.. the backup plan
THIS is nice
I’d like me a discharge spot welder but haven’t got round to following up on the idea. Come across the following a long time back. He’s uploaded schematics and PCB images but not gerber files and I haven’t had the determination to put the effort in myself.
I’m having trouble finding a reliable answer online; I’m building a light but powerful mid-size board with the VESC Duet XS 100v, using 40-44 Reliance RS50 cells. I was initially thinking about a 14s3p pack but the Duet XS has a 50a battery limit, so then I was thinking a 20s2p pack to take advantage of the high voltage ESC and the high discharge cells.
If my gear ratio will not be higher than 3.0, is it advisable/dangerous to run my current 6360 170kv motors on 20s? or should I find lower kv motors? or do I need to find specialty motors rated for high voltage?
Some motors have a hard time with higher voltage and overheat but its not documented well. It’s one of those things you might just need to try and monitor the temps for test runs. If you have issues it would likely be fixed by changing brands more than changing kv. Gl and report back
6360 170kv on 20s will prob heats up pretty quick if you’re riding above 60% duty cycle, especially if they’re closed can. I have 6385 151kv Reachers on 20s and they get up to 50°C in 50-60°F weather with normal riding, YMMV. You might get away with your setup if it’s top speed it’s like 50mph but you ride at around 25-30mph. High KV + high voltage won’t heat up too much if you don’t ride fast/hard enough.
A few questions about your planned build:
What is your desired maximum speed?
Is 44 cells your absolute maximum?
How many battery amps did you use on your previous setup?
What wheel diameter are you planning to use?
Is your 3:1 gear ratio fixed, or can you change it?
Which exact 6360 motors are you using?
Thanks guys!
Desired max speed is 40mph, 44 cells maximum, no previous DIY setup to compare, wheel diameter 92-110mm. Mostly use 105s. Exact gear ratio is 2.8 (street gear drive), Hobbywing 6360 closed can motors.
I’d love to pick up the Reacher 6365s but they only come with a 8mm keyed shaft. My pinion gear is 10mm D shaft. I’d have to have a new pinion gear machined to fit the reacher but that’s beyond my capability atm.
