Should I try to assume a max charge time say 10 hours for at most a 100Ah battery, and leave that timer in the charger which resets every time you charge?
I think those are very different issues (incorrect setting and no BMS) and riders with a BMS will also have the wrong switch setting sometimes. But I share your frustration.
You can still assume that someone might not have a BMS, or is replacing theirs, or is waiting for a replacement to arrive, etc., and provide a charge timeout without impacting your voltage setting feature.
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I can’t say. You’ll have to find out what the highest capacity pack is, or packs, that will likely be charged and go from there. Or what’s the largest pack you’re willing to support the charging of.
If I remember correctly TI has a five hour timeout for some of their controllers but I don’t think there’s any kind of special safety reason for that amount of time. Their customers just aren’t charging huge packs IMO.
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I wouldn’t want a total timer. unless it was ok to be arbitrarily too large for most cases, or user adjustable. the frustration from having it too short would make it pragmatically unusable.
I always thought charger shuts off when current drops below some threshold A.
and on some when current drops below some threshold B. start a timer to shutdown. therefore the timer is only after at least the bulk of charging is complete. semi adapative.
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If these chargers can be really small and light that brings up the possibility of building them into the board.
In which case offering one with no case at all, just bare PCB, would be great!
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Personally I’d rather have more voltage and current control than anything, I use 10s/12s/15s and would like to have a 83% mode for each to bring them to storage, I’m happy with the fan noise and worse case is get some 40mm Noctuas
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An integrated charger could be useful but you’d probably need to add a heat sink if pulling more than a couple amps.
I am very, VERY worried about the need to wire up an AC power cord connector though. Having an integrated charger results in lethal voltages being present inside the board and most AC power connectors have an exposed rear. Portions of the PCB would be at the AC mains voltage too, requiring a case or some other way to prevent death if the enclosure is opened while the charger is plugged in…which will happen.
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I’m wondering how well the different full-charge voltage settings could work for storage voltage too. For example, use 12S setting for storage voltage charging of a 15S pack.
I haven’t run the numbers though.
I’m not worried about that at all - it’s a solved problem and, for the most part, heat shrink is your friend.
Although seeing some of the battery builds on here I understand your concern 
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I’m gonna close this vote either after today or once it passes 30 voters
Believe me when I say I’ve thought about this two years ago when I first started this journey.
The thinnest PCBA we can reasonably fit inside a board is about 25mm, which requires a completely custom PFC that cost about 20k in moulding, and a couple of other thicker components to shrink down and lay flat, the total moulding cost should be around 40k USD. However, the cost is simply too great to be a first generation product. As for potting, if you’re throwing the PCBA inside the board enclosure, fuck yeah you’re gonna need to pot the damn thing, how else will you make sure your charger survives the abuse of little to no reduction in vibration and impacts? Afterall charging it’s only one of the most dangerous stages of using a battery lol, don’t sweat it
You are publishing your product in this listing as having UL & CE certification.
So we are clear, this is a $300 charger, that at your time of listing has zero official safety testing & certification done, despite what your spec sheet claims?
Is that correct?
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this is always a tinsy bit of a pet peeve for me. there’s no fixed percentage charge at which constant current stops and constant voltage begins.
CC/CV basically means that there’s a limit on current and voltage.
when the charger applies current to the cells it raises the voltage. if the voltage rises to the max voltage, current is reduced to not exceed max voltage. “CV stage” If the current reaches max current before hitting the max voltage, the current is held at max current. “CC stage”
so. if you have the same battery a 10A charger will raise voltage more, hit max voltage sooner, and start reducing current at a lower state of charge than a 5A charger. ie two different percentage charge.
The amount of voltage rise depends also on the IR of the pack so from pack to pack or as pack ages I would expect the CC->CV transition point to vary as well.
ok, sry for the interruption. 
thanks for listing to my rant.
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Partially.
CE is done as stated above, but the document belongs to the supplier I’m working with, and there are details on that document which I’m not at liberty to share publicly. I am working on getting that document privatized as we speak.
As for UL, the lab tests were ran by official UL recognized laboratories, however the document cost a fortune and considering it adds little to no value for authenticating the safety of the device beyond other certifications such as CE which we’ve already aquired, we have decided to postpone the UL certificate for now and have it added later. This is partially the reason that we are able to offer this device at 230 USD for now.
And do you see the option to actually spend a dime on this charger anywhere? I don’t think so, because I also think making the device available to purchase before these documents were released is absurd.
Maybe spend your time chasing people who sell chargers with no certificates whatsoever yet still print it on the charger, whose performance is also really subpar, and get off our ass while we are one of the few groups of people who are willing to do things properly.
I know, but it is generally around 80-90%, just trying to speak more layman terms
no worries, Mooch also touched on this subject for a bit earlier in this thread, no harm trying to correct things for what they truly are.
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If you’re not posting the certificate of conformity or have actually gone through UL testing, listing your product as having these is fraudulent.
There’s zero room for debate on this. Your own infographics are intentionally misleading.
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C’mon bro…
It’s all sorted.
Trust me
Please find me a site where I’m listing it for sale. I’m waiting right here.
The whole point of announcing the thing instead of straight up selling it as is, is so that I could wait for paperwork to be done before doing so.
I found it right here, on this Google indexed website, with a price.
Someone not reading through every post you make might look to the infographic you posted for a summary of information and think this is a UL Listed product.
The easy solution here is to not post misleading information and correct what you’ve misrepresented.
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is there any way to pay for this product? because I’m not receiving any orders or money