For the deck pictured above? Yes.
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If you like the deck and prefer top mount, they also have a Restless Furabu (just checked and Amazon no longer stocks this board). It’s the same shape and 3" longer. Has a bit more of a micro drop. And there are no drop through cut outs.
I have both boards and love them both.
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I bought the deck you recommended. Everything should be arriving next week at which point I’m already gonna be at college. I might take all the parts with me but I’m not sure yet.
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Do it. Especially if you are a freshman - you will have time lol
I did my second motor upgrade during my first freshman semester 3 years ago and today I build stuff all the time, even with my ridiculous schedule
Hell yeah! ERAU will love it haha
Small update, motor, vesc, remote and pulley combo came in the mail. I also canceled the deck and decided to just buy one from a skate shop in Daytona. I’m pretty sure there is a maker space on campus where I can resin and fibreglass it. If not crappy graphics untill Thanksgiving 
My deck came, Unfortunately Hurricane Dorian has decided to interfere with my plans to build it this week. Next week will probably be the earliest that I will be able to put it together.
Build time! Most of the rest of my parts bar batteries and the motor mount are coming tomorrow. bought an enclosure at Target and I’m hoping I have clearance for it. Its got a seal around it for waterproofness.
I also made some templates for batteries and the ESC to figure out their position in the enclosure. Everything should fit nicely in the box and ill 3d print some caps for the holes I cut for wires.
Of course even any progress must be met with a setback. I couldn’t get the battery door on the controller open as the screw must be seized or something. I emailed DIYelectricskatboards to ask what to do.
Ill probably put together as much as can on Tuesday and upload pictures and such. Theirs no maker room on campus so if i want to glass it, I would have to do it outside so the space theme is gonna have to wait a while.
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I made a wiring diagram to make sure I know what I’m doing before I solder. Before I do any of this. Will a physical copy of what I drew kill me/people around me/my board? That would be a bad outcome.
By voltmeter I mean one of these:
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Assuming you wire all your XT90s right, you’re good to go. Also make sure the loopkey XT90 pair includes one XT90S
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Batteries came today!! Would I be assuming correctly that plugging one right into the esc to see if all the electronics would be an idiotic idea and I should wait until I solder up the wiring harness? All im waiting for now is the motor mount.
I soldered the entire wiring harness. And on the advice of a friend I also color coded all of the XT90 connectors so I will never plug something in to the wrong socket. (99.9% idiot proof, they always find a way to mess things up.) I plugged the batteries in and everything that I could test seems to work great. I got the transmitter paired and the VESC recognized by the computer. The motor mount and enclosure come tomorrow so a big moment of truth when I play the game of “Will it all fit?”
Due to unfortunate circumstances I had to order a replacement deck which will take at minimum a week to arrive. On the plus side I anticipate no more setbacks and will be able to throw gently put it together when I have the new deck.
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Please excuse my footwear but I was too excited no to get a video and film right then and there.
I got the motor spinning and the remote all configured. It’ll only be a matter of time before I run over some unfortunate pedestrian with my vehicle. Up next: enclosure setup.
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Boy does it fly. I mounted the electronics box to the board after cutting holes for the motor wires and the loop key. The velcro is for the batteries.
Then I installed the motor mount checking many times to make sure that it had plenty of clearance from the deck. Only after everything else was good did I locktite the motor screws and the motor pulley screws. I took the board for a test drive up and down the main path and had a blast. I tried going full throttle but it wobbled a bit so I tightened the trucks more. Its probably also a practice thing.
As my friends pointed it out its a low rider. While the box does have clearance its only a few inches a the most. Thank goodness Florida is flat. I need to secure the male port for the loop key to the box so it doesn’t move when I push the key in. I’m debating between glassing the bottom like my first board or having it spray painted. There’s a kid on campus who does a quality space mural thing. Regardless I’ll have to disassemble it to art the bottom. I’m already thinking about a second build with a lithium ion pack as well. For anyone curious I probably spent 600-700 on the build. Finally I’d like to thank all the people who helped me with advice and made sure I didn’t do anything extremely stupid.
I’ll try to record a video at some point as well.
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My lord that picture reminds me of my first build.
Awesome work man
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After riding a bit the sandwich box broke and I replaced it with a fancy polycarb one that should hold up better, in the first picture you can see it has way better ground clearance as well(That’s my roommates mess as well). In addition on the advice of @mmaner I got legit Ollin Popoca wheels that ride smoother then the clones I was rocking. The loop key port jiggles in and out but I’m hesitant to superglue it in for fear of needing a new box should something break. Range on this thing is superb I usually only have to charge it every 2 days after moderate riding to and from class. I need to get composites lab access to glass the bottom so hopefully I can get to that at some point. I tightened to trucks a ton but I still get wobbles at high speed and turning radius is crap (top speed of 25mph but I havent gone full throttle) Im sure I could hit 30 if I wanted to but only after I get a helmet of course! I dont thing there’s much else but to start saving for another build:rofl: I’m thinking @torqueboards AT tires and the new CNC trucks with a proper Li-Ion battery. That’ll be a while though 
So plenty of time for fun riding in the meanwhile!
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Talk to @RipTideSports about your bushing setup. That’s likely what it’ll take to solve the wobbles.
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Taking the time to second this opinion. As someone who originally thought “ok its chunks of urethane how different can they be” I am a firm believer that you need to tune the bushing setup. It was like a had a whole new board after trying the recipe @RipTideSports recommended.
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Thanksgivings coming up which means garage access!! I have access to a composites lab but I want to wait and gain more trust in case something goes south and I screw something up. That being said I’m starting to thing about the order of operations for skinning my deck as I’m planning to skin the top and bottom with the space fabric and then frit the top. I’m thinking to do the bottom first completely with fabric then fibreglass and then the top with the same process before adding the frit. If anyone has any suggestions that would be super helpful so my second skinning can turn out even more awesome then the first one that I did.