I believe this is normal behaviour. Should be nullified when you ride.
What do you mean?
In the VESC tool, are the values for each motor about the same? If so, then its likely that there no issue there.
Glad to see that this is near completion! Well done on getting things together and problem solving it all.
Ok a lot was happening from last update 
Do some tidings in case:
Power cables:
But not everything went smooth, after closing case, finish cabling routing this happen…
Was searching for issues from my side, VESC configuration, connections etc. but find none… it just burned. After contacting with Flipsky (thanks guys) and describing problem with all my “documentation” from here I was able to get replacement. So I advise all of you to do such documentation when playing with electronics, because root cause of such problems can be on each side with similar probability.
During that time got many new ideas so I end up with different box - easier access, a little bit more space and IPX resistant
Thanks god Flipsky made it before koronavirus and get me replacement quite fast:
After “few” (counting in houndreds ) approaches got a final case:
One issue still remains for future as yesterday find out that receiver is losing signal due to polarisation (case is acting as Faraday cup so signal is weaken). This still needs to be addressed, but already got some ideas
Last day I have also some spare night time to add lightening. Not final solution, as I want to supply them from main battery, but need to buy regulator from 48V to 8V to do so. In the mean time I have temporary used one of tool boxes I have ordered at beginning. Lights are double 260 lumens / 46Lux LED lights from bike. @Lee_Wright you might be interested into them basing on your last approach to Cyclop Beast
Already done not much as 100km on it I’m in love. One thing does not sleep we well, as I’m thinking that 4kW on that engines Flipsky 6384 is only marketing, was able to stop them from moving in small dirt on full throttle at 65A - not sure if this is the case or is it my configuration.
BTW why engines that are able to do 100A continues are discovered as 65A, is it just VESC behaviour to be 100% sure that nothing will be wrong?
Classic Flipsky…
That kW rating is always peak power, not continuous. And you need to run them close to 90A (battery and motor) at 12s to get 4kW. What are your settings?
I would definitely cover the top side of that esc.
You placed bare connectors in a metal box. That’s no good, man!
Just waiting for your next short.
I agree with @Andy87 - removing the heat shrink and then leaving the ESC open is dangerous. Maybe heat shrink the ESC or do something to prevent it from getting shorted!!
Agreed this is another fire waiting to happen, from the looks of your last picture, I am not 100% sure the esc fire is 100% flipskys fault. Glad you got a replacement though. Deffiently make sure you manage your wires better, and shrink wrap that esc. Board could theoretically be renamed to “FireMaker”
Currently VESC settings are on 65A as was diagnosed. At this moment got 12s2p (2x Turnigy 6s 20kmAh).
First time it was not a short circuit. Bare connectors are not an issue if board is fixed to case. Previous it was mounted by screws, now its glued. Beside that it is divided from other things that might move and isolated.
You know, that ESC comes heatshrinked in a way where you don’t have possibility to plug connectors, right? So this is producent call. Trampa does far better job in that manner and if anything will happen with that board I will go for their ESC, because of fabric casing, mounting points etc.
@Andy87, @robedude, @Skyart thank you guys for worry, but first to get shortcircuit there must be loose element that might cause shorcircuit. Everything in that box except ESC is isolated, board is fixed to cover, so there is no possibility of that one. Of course I would also feel more comfortable if Flipsky would offer some casing for top part, because I fear more of cables that could physical damage to board elements or water that might somehow get there rather than shortcircuit it. That is why I was looking for something like that sprays (e.g. https://www.lexuma.com/products/x2o-water-repellent-spray-for-electronic-devices) that does make your electronic waterproof, but not sure if that won’t make board to overheat or something.
Also seen a project where a guy put everything in some kind of plastic making its board waterproof. But this for sure might cause overheating problems. At this moment thanks to metal box I got ESC at level of 32C under full load (4C outside temp), which is great, comparing to one of previous setups when ESC was closed inside and got almost 90C during a load.
BTW you might get shocked how many electronics are in metal boxes and boards are not isolated… take a look of laptops or PCes for example 
But if you got some ideas, or maybe a ready project of 3D printed case for that ESC I would be glad. Its not that I don’t agree with you, I do, but got some experience with electronic, electric etc. and I’m aware of what I have to fear.
I had always thought that the original heatsink was there so that you could only cut away the spots needed to connect your plugs. You aren’t supposed to completely remove the shink-wrap unless you plan on rewrapping it.
To be honest… I have no idea 
That shrink-wrap does not make any sense for me, because beside covering ports, it is also decreasing heatsink efficiency.
If it would look like here:
On my FSESC 6.6 Plus I have the heatshrink around the power cables cut, as well as for my remote, metr, & hall sensors. Everywhere else I leave the original plastic wrap. It works really well and keeps the ESC pretty tightly enclosed and protected from shorts. I ended up covering the power cables with electrical tape too since they were a bit exposed. I think this is the easiest way to prepare the ESC properly (as opposed to re-wrapping and cutting slots later).
I didn’t thought about it as master plan was making an box part of heatsink, due to known problem with overheating of that ESCes. But thanks for tips I think It might be possible to cut a hole for heatsink, as it will hold on on corners.
As always, bright ideas comes after closing projects
From news, got new bindings with heel straps - best choice ever
Was a little afraid at first of having foots fixed to board, but after a first ride it was good decision. They gives so much feeling of control and overall board feel - it is awesome.
Got also voltage regulators to power lights from main battery, but don’t have enough time to finish that 
What exactly is going on here? Explain yourself.
good eye, please administer proper punishment
Guys… take it easy… got wife which is riding that to work 
Hey dude, how are those motors holding up?
For past year, without any problem, few crashes, mostly used in woods, mud etc. and they are still going on after ~1kkm
But I do not push them full power, they are working on average set to 65 amps.
Nice. I’m going to be ordering some myself pretty soon ! Glad.to hear there doing well!
