TL;DR: If you’ve got a regular longboard and want to turn it into an electric skateboard without breaking the bank or your sanity, grab an Autoro AESC DV6.7 dual controller, follow the FOC wizard, and you’re 90% there. I did it, and you can too. Oh, and Autoro actually replies to emails – more on that later.
Why I stopped dreaming and started building
Like many of you, I spent months lurking build threads, watching YouTube, and convincing myself DIY was too complicated. Then I stumbled across the Autoro DV6.7 – a dual‑motor VESC‑based ESC that literally holds your hand through setup. The clincher? Direct manufacturer support. None of that “ask the forum” silence. I emailed Autoro.service@hotmail.com with a stupid beginner question and got a human reply within 24 hours. That’s when I pulled the trigger.
Short link to the DV6.7 (Amazon): https://a.co/d/0grGlMP0
Main website: www.autorotech.com
What you’ll need (the simple version)
-
Autoro AESC DV6.7 – dual channel, 50A continuous per motor, 12S ready, built‑in CAN for sync.
-
Two BLDC motors (e.g. 6374) – one for each rear wheel.
-
12S Li‑ion battery (or 10S if you’re cautious).
-
PPM remote & receiver (I used a Flipsky VX1).
-
USB‑C cable, soldering iron (just for battery connectors), and a free afternoon.
Step 1: Hardware – don’t rush this
Power down everything before touching wires. Connect motor phases (A/B/C) to the DV6.7 terminals – order doesn’t matter yet. Then battery polarity: red to (+), black to (–). Reverse polarity kills the ESC instantly. Triple‑check.
The DV6.7 has a spark‑proof design and includes the Autoro S16 lockable switch – super handy for controlled power‑on. LED guide:
-
Blue = powered.
-
Green dim = firmware running.
-
Green bright = driving motor.
-
Red = fault (check VESC Tool).
Full hardware guide (PDF): DV6.7 User Manual (page 4‑5 for wiring)
Step 2: Software – the FOC wizard does the heavy lifting
Download VESC Tool from vesc‑project.com/vesc_tool. Connect via USB‑C, click AutoConnect. Then hit “Setup Motors FOC”.
The wizard asks a few things:
-
Motor type → choose Medium Outrunner (750g) – works for 6374, 6064, even 80100.
-
Battery type → BATTERY_TYPE_LIION_3_0_4_2 (standard Li‑ion).
-
Cell count & capacity → adjust if auto‑detect is wrong.
-
Gearing → if no belt yet, select Direct Drive.
Then click RUN DETECTION. The motor will beep and spin slowly for 30‑60 seconds. Make sure it’s completely free‑spinning – no load, no belt, no resistance.
If detection succeeds, you’ll see R, L, Flux, Sensor Status. Click OK, then test direction with FWD/REV. If reversed, toggle Inverted and FINISH.
Detailed FOC walkthrough (video):
-
Official multi‑motor PDF: Setup_Motors_FOC_Multi_AESC_en.pdf
Step 3: Current limits – don’t skip this
After calibration, go to Welcome & Wizards → Multi Settings → LIMITS. Set these conservatively:
| Parameter | Safe starting value |
|---|---|
| Motor Current Max | 60‑80A (check your motor rating) |
| Motor Current Max Brake | –50A |
| Absolute Maximum Current | 150A (DV6.7 basic) |
| Battery Current Max | ≤ Motor Current Max |
| Battery Current Max Regen | –10A (start low) |
Why? Too much regen into a full battery = fire risk. Too much motor current = toasted ESC. The manual has a big red warning about this – respect it.
For speed, go to Motor Settings → General → RPM – max ERPM 150,000. Formula: Motor RPM = Voltage × KV, Pole Pairs = poles ÷ 2.
What if it fails? (troubleshooting from real life)
FOC detection fails – 90% of the time it’s a loose phase wire. Power off, tighten everything, retry.
Motor sounds crunchy – re‑run the wizard. Second pass usually fixes it.
Negative flux linkage – disable phase filters: Motor Settings → FOC → Filters → Phase Enable Filters = False, save config, restart calibration.
Detection current too low for big motors – in the wizard settings, nudge Detection Current from 5A to 10A (not higher).
Full troubleshooting in the PDF: page 13‑14 of the multi‑motor guide.
Why I’m sticking with Autoro (and you might too)
The DV6.7 isn’t just another VESC clone. It’s a dual‑channel controller with internal CAN – no messing with external wiring for sync. The silkscreened PCB labels, the S16 lockable switch, the compact 90×64×17mm size… it’s clearly designed by people who actually build boards.
But the real kicker? Direct manufacturer support. I’ve emailed them three times:
-
Once about polarity (dumb, I know).
-
Once about a firmware glitch.
-
Once to ask for a replacement XT90 (my fault, I melted it).
Every time: reply within 1‑2 business days. No chatbot, no “contact your reseller”. That alone is worth the price.
Final words
Building your own e‑skate is incredibly satisfying – and with the right ESC, it’s not hard. The Autoro DV6.7 takes you from zero to “holy crap this thing rips” in an afternoon. Just follow the wizard, respect the current limits, and keep your battery polarity straight.
Drop your build questions below – I’ll answer what I can. And if you grab a DV6.7, hit me up. Let’s ride.
Resources one more time:
Follow me for more noob‑friendly build diaries – next up: battery spot welding without setting the garage on fire. 
