The epoxy goes on reaaaal thick and likes to pool in the concave areas if you have the board laying flat to dry. Next one I try, I might hang the deck to dry to try avoid this…
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Good to know. The deck I’m doing doesn’t have super aggressive concave so I hope it won’t interfere. I don’t really have a good spot to hang it but that sounds ideal.
Ya know what, I’m just going to use water based spar urethane again. I have tons of the stuff and the epoxy I have has too quick of a set time for me to be comfortable doing it nicely my first try.
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Spar urethane is made to flex more than epoxy. I’d imagine it’s better to use without altering the flex of the deck too much.
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Epoxy alone wont affect the flex
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Idk about that, maybe only a thin coat wouldn’t. My hummie deck has zero flex. Not sure how much flex there was before it got the epoxy job though.
The boat forum guys are avid about the spar urethane on wood and how epoxy is for non wood floors.
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I have to side with @Venom121212 on this one epoxy is alot more rigid. That is why you can make tables with a sold block of epoxy
Epoxy & cloth - yeah it would get more rigid for sure, but just a couple of coats of epoxy alone are really going to have an extremely minimal effect on flex, if any.
Plus its heaps easier, in some cases you can get away with a single coat, if you are using fine frit.
As for epoxy and wood, I have definitely read that it is best to seal the timber first (but I can’t remember what with) as the epoxy bonds better with a non-porous surface. But I haven’t had any issues going straight onto wood 
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I agree with this, especially for a top coat. An epoxied bottom would alter flex more I imagine.
A lot of the boat guys do one coat of epoxy and then a shit ton of coats of spar urethane over it. Damn now you have me wanting to frit my new deck.
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actually, epoxy and maple have pretty much identical flexural modulus and tensile strength, assuming you are a filthy wood elf 
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Maple is a hard ass wood but you’re either nuts for believing that or I’m about to be shocked by some research.
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well your board gets thicker my friend. it doesn’t matter if you smear it on the top or the bottom. but your are right about the nuts part.
woody:
http://matweb.com/search/datasheet_print.aspx?matguid=67e57f907bc842259e268a5c8e4a7457
laminating epoxy:
https://system.eu2.netsuite.com/core/media/media.nl?id=54760&c=3937524&h=25fbf4b8bcc9a9db3140&_xt=.pdf
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I’m sorry I misunderstood your point haha.
Do you believe a solid epoxy skateboard would ride the same as a maple one? 
I imagine shear force plays into flex as well
Obviously both would be awful to ride and are bad examples. Let’s go with a long beam.
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nop.
but there are way more things than tensile strength and flexural modulus that goes in to it.
im just taking the liberty of taking the piss out of you 
but yeah there are a bunch of things vibration, yeah compressive stuff, grain structure, fiber orientation and what not. damn i’m scientific.
but yeah there is a reason why I moved from pressing my own wood to play with pure composites (and what was mainly for mechanical reasons and not just the looks.) call me mad but I adore the trampoline stuff you just need the right type of trampoline.
Don’t want to derail any more but I agree, it’s been fun. Searching through data tables on mobile was no fun.
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Doesn’t all epoxy yellow over time though
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wood farts that’s why, but you can seal it with a low viscosity epoxy.
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not unless they have some UV-inhibiting stuff in them. usually casting and coating resins has them built in. they are usually pretty good at mentioning it all over it’s description if they are.
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Yeah but apparently you can coat over it with a uv resistant clear coat to combat this
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One of my windsurfing boards has uv protection epoxy. No yellow thing… the other one looks like a lemon
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So I’ve got my Haero Bro now, but they’ve got a PET clear sheet on top to protect the board. What can I do to get glass frit on that? Any ideas @sender, what are you doing to cover them with your graphics?
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