If we pinned every VESC issue there was there’d be nothing but pinned topics.
Just yesterday…
I was using vesc-tool 1.23, I d/l 1.25 because it bitched at me. The firmware revision is the same in the new version!
On a new firmware load and setup I got 120 second negative ramping time as default.
Oh, and reverse is still broken regardless of what everyone says.
What’s broken about it?
It doesn’t work for Nunchuck / VESC Remote. Maybe it does for the Wand but not for others.
can someone explain to me whats up with this fix. can you drain your battery lower than whats set without this fix?
=== FW 23.44 ===
Those two are related to FW 23.45. There is a mistake in the changelog:
Why do i see that abs over current coming back… I was assured it wws solved prev patch…
Sorry it’s just sloppy patch notes copy paste by me. Somehow 23.44 and 23.45 got lumped together in the notes. I’ll fix it.
Fieeuuuwww 
(still going to wait until after the skate event of tomorrow 
Not sure if this issue already been posted on this thread.
Direct battery measured 41V, Unity’ HUD showed 34.4v
@Deodand can you confirm something for me?
Should the unity max motor amp value be per motor or the sum of both? Scale indicates one motor.
Motor A per motor, Battery A total
120A battery A = 120 A
70 motor A =70+70A
Thank you for the confirmation.
@Deodand I know you’re busy with more important things but I wanted to bring up two small things I’ve noticed after using the Unity for a few months.
Firstly, roll to start (RTS) with a Flipsky VX1 (PPM mode) will not connect on the first power on. If I RTS and power on the remote it refuses to connect. If I turn off the Unity and RTS again it will connect. It seems to never want to connect if the first power up is from RTS. It seems to “reset” after 5 minutes and no longer connect on first RTS power up. As long as I power the Unity using the button or RTS after one power cycle it appears to have no issue connecting to the remote.
Secondly, when I change my cutoff end voltage it “chops the percentage off the top” so to say. That is if I have a full charge 100% and wanted to have more conservative settings than the 10s preset, it will never show 100% even though you are fully charged to 42V. I was wondering if there is a way to change the calculation so it “chops the percentage off the bottom” so you can see 100% at full charge with more conservative settings. Perhaps I don’t understand how it works but it’s just a small nitpick since I rely on the Unity app to check battery percentage. It just feels wrong to be fully charged and not have the app show 100%.
Obviously my solutions to these issues are already in practice: Don’t use roll to start and don’t change the battery cutoff settings but if possible I would love to have these investigated
The flipsky issue is actually related to the remote reciever not the unity so there isn’t a lot I can do about it without changing hardware. Basically the voltage line comes up a bit messy and the reciever gets locked in some kind of weird state.
The voltage/percentage thing is just a few lines of code I can take a look at.
I figured it might be a flipsky hardware problem since I couldn’t recall an issue with the mini remote. As for the battery percentage, great! Thanks a ton!
I have a problem here. This is the first time I connect my unity to the 12s6p Samsung 30q battery pack. Turning on the power switch unity suddenly explodes, the on/off switch does not work, and the power supply directly starts the esc, which can control the motor. It is the on/off switch failure. Have you ever had the same experience or know where the problem occurred?
Apparently it wasn’t QC passed
I’m sure it was QC passed. I’d double check no debris got on electronics when you swapped the heatsink. I once blew up a unit when I had a piece of wire stuck to the thermal pad 
You’re no longer entitled to bash on vendors or their products. You are now a “valuable friend” remember?
