63100 200Kv motors from Saite (loved my 6374 , thanks again @EboardSolutions for helping me with the resonating motors), I decided to go with them because Matrix II trucks are wide, and those motors are the best screamers:
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Furthermore, I wanted to have higher top speed (70km/h now).
DopeGrip griptape, ordered them for my Torqueboard board (TB40, TBDD…) but was delayed, so added to my Flux for added comfort. I was skeptical about them to be honest. but hell, kudos to them.
For example, when you take a small bump, sometimes your feet do not touch the deck for a split second. This grip keeps your feet right on it.
DavegaX: Hell yeah, I had issue with freezing screen and white screen on my TB board, it’s gone and works perfectly on AT wheels, no issue after 500+ km
Shredlights: Only in the front, does not fit in the back (no space)
Heatsink: Weather here was crazy (35/36° C during the day), this was necessary to keep the Unity cool during the long ride
yeah not at all so if you have any specific suggestions then let me know… yes some decent articles on constant current regulators, constant voltage regulators… but also i didnt see anything that led to thermal run away or overdriving the leds since my buck converter has been blowing before the cobs died… and then some of the articles suggest that the leds wont pull more than they are rated for only what they need…
but this statement is interesting is exactly what im doing ahving them wired in paralell…running of a buck =CV right?
Constant voltage supplies powering COBs in parallel make the COBs susceptible to thermal runaway, and I’ve even seen LED manufacturers (Bridgelux, in particular) advise against using constant voltage to power their COBs right in their documentation (see picture below). In my experience, as long as you aren’t driving the COB near max and your heat sink is doing its job, you should be fine.
i reached out to superbrightleds.com earlier to see what their people had to see and see if they had any items for sale… they baiscally recommended the converter im getting from amazon today with the heatsink but as youll read they feel the converter should be doing its job just fine and not blowing…aside from the fact that the ones I had might be under spec… i guess we’ll see later tonight…
Render of the “fuse pcb” it will house a 80A fuse for the battery/esc, 15A fuse for the charge port, connectors for the charge port/BMS and receiver. Designed for easy replacement of faulty bms/charge port/ receiver
Damn brother. Why not go a little higher.
I run 90a on your pack and hit that number quite often
When I asked about the fuse that came installed on the first batch packs you told me it was 100a. Is that correct?
Yeah brother. I get what you mean. But that’s a little too close for comfort. Personally I’d want some headroom In this case 90a would’ve been perfect imo
But again. Most people will probably keep stock setting and won’t exceed some 70a
Normally it is a slow blow fuse. You can easy pull 90A through it without killing it. If you do 90A continu you will kill it after a exact time. That is something to look up in the datasheet.
But 90A is easy possible for that board without killing the fuse because we never have that ampere continu.
