Anyone seen or used this (relatively) new 110 volt Flipsky Vesc based esc?
And;
I know, I know, It’s Flipsky junk.
I have 4 different Flipsky models I have used for years, they work just fine if you don’t push the limits.
Assuming the $100 list price is real, might be an OK option for higher voltage setups.
That’s a lot of ESC for $100. I’d love to see the PCB and see what FETs they’re using
Likely comes straight off the production line, untested, shipped to you with no usable warranty at all.
I was wanting that too, they have it for many of their other VESCs.
I was actually really considering this with the new jetfleet 32s bms. Not for more power but it could suit enclosure layout well.
24S is the most hV esk8 ever right? at least seen here.
I’ve had great service from their 75100 Pro dual and 75100 V2 singles at 16S-18S, and my longest-serving board of all used a lowly FSESC 6.0 Dual Mini+ (with fried anti-spark switch of course) at 12S for 4+ seasons and over 4k miles, 3 sets of motors. I’d be buying a pair of these today for my newest build if not up-in-the-air re tariffs / customs hold etc. I’m starting to like singles, if only for ease of strange packaging + doubled DC input wiring out of the box.
This 110 series allows use of 2x 10S scooter or ebike packs in series, or 2x cheapie 10S hub motor packs in series. The pack is often the most expensive part of a board, these will allow somebody to share pack(s) with other PEVs more easily, re-purpose otherwise useless 10S stuff they’ve outgrown.
Using different packs in series is very sketchy, don’t do it unless you really know what you are doing.
Also as someone who works on ebike packs a bunch, don’t use scooter or ebike packs, unless you looked inside and an esk8 battery builder verified that it’s up to the task, most of the ones I worked on from china would be a fire hazard in an esk8. Bikes seem to get away with stuff that I find extremely sketchy coming from an esk8 background.
It could also do 2x 12S in series. But as Dinnye said it’s to be avoided. It’s also not ideal just less bad but you could put 2 in parallel. You could even have wildly different Ah in parallel (which would just potentially wear the packs faster). Use 2x the Kv you would use if you put the packs in series and more current. if you would use flipskys anyway the 300A/200A 75200 is probably solid. 12S high amps is loads of power. Personally one pack for the front and one for the back is preferable over mixing packs. DV6S
I’ve used 4S, 5S and 6S Lipos in series as 10S, 12S, 16S, 18S for 5+ seasons. I make the combo safe by using a BMS that balances across all sub-packs. Only recently have I switched to 6S1P and 6S2P sub-packs made with JP40 and 40PL 21700s from Nelvick Berrios. These I dont charge through a BMS, but periodically (weekly - semi-weekly) charge individually on a fancy hobby charger to top balance. I’ve rolled this way all year, damaged one 6S1P sub-pack from hard charging from dead (which Nelvick repaired gratis!), and have probably done 60 charge cycles. I’m not suggesting anybody else roll w/o a proper BMS at least for charging, but for me, this game works well.
