But they’re big and ugly
Maybe if the ESC actually had a proper sleep mode? 
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I personally don’t think so.
Most external anti spark switches are bigger and fail definitely more often and personally I don’t think they look ugly 
Disclaimer: I needed to say so because of my former title 
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It’s a shame I wasn’t here making antisparks earlier . __.
Yeah, lot’s of people got burned by poorly designed antisparks. . __.
I personally find it a pain in the ass to plug and unplug XT90S connectors. But everyone has their preferences.
The loopkey has its own advantage of being an emergency stop.
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Welcome to every china supplier…
Dont mean to pile on but…
Therese a reason they’re cheaper. Actually, theres probably a 100 reasons. Stop endorsing their shit, its not a secret that they’re a questionable vendor at best.
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I use an xt90s (safety - basically takes out the spark) coming off the battery to a 100A mini-circuit breaker for the power interrupt on the positive cable. Has worked like a charm so far with every VESC I’ve used it on, which is all of them. Failure has always been of another cause - oh yeah, it’s shit VESC to begin with.
Tested VESC #2 and one of it’s USB ports did not work either. Again, the other one did. So this time I didn’t bother upgrading firmware which sucks because Flipsky left the fucking 1.63 version or whichever one it is that has the UART problems. I did programs the Maytech 6374’s that are new. I did not program the app (throttle remote) because it actually worked after programming the motors so I didn’t want to fix what’s not broken but I do need to do that ASAP as when I’m riding the board when I let the thumb wheel go the board has an ever so slight breaking to it so it needs to be re-calibrated for sure. I am apprehensive to do that because using the VESC tool on it fucked up VESC #1 last night before I even got to program the motors. Nevertheless, it needs to get done.
Something I noticed tonight changing out my motor pulleys - when I spin the wheels (battery is not even plugged into the VESC) the motors have slight resistance to them and it also starts to power on the VESC. How no flipping idea how this could be happening. I unplugged the hall sensors knowing that this probably wasn’t the cause but did it just to eliminate the possibility. When I say power on I mean the LED power indicator on the VESC PCB board is what starts to glow brighter until the wheel slows and the light dies with it. It’s not because of a contacted motor wire, I checked that. No idea but I’m scared to power anything on because what it is doing right now is not natural and this has to be an indication of something else majorly wrong.
So sick of dealing with Flipski bullshit. Need to pull the trigger and get me the SuperFoc6.8’s Maytech has out.
you just generate current when spinning the motor and vesc gets kind of “powered” dont overdo that without battery connected @kchxaz
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Really? I did not know that. When you say don’t overdo it you mean the damage will occur to the VESC (not the motors)?
Not to question your statement but why would the battery being hooked up make any difference? Does the power need to be on as well? I ask because I have a circuit breaker inline with the positive cable coming off the battery that I use for my on/off/anti-spark switch and there are times - such as short distances or when the battery run out on me on those occasions I forgot to charge it, etc… - I will just push the board old skool style rather than turn it on and ride it, so in essence It’s not hooked up when the breaker is flipped off. Sorry for all the questions it’s just I’ve never heard of this concern so I am trying understand it best I can so as to avoid inadvertently screwing it up. I snapped my last deck and have been “re-building” my previous build with an upgrade to new Maytech 6374’s (from generic 6355’s) and at some point I’ll be trashing the FlipShit VESC and replacing it with the newer SuperFoc6.8 (x2), since they do not yet produce a dual SuperFoc, also from Maytech.
I would imagine it has to do with the fact your battery will be giving constant current and a steady voltage while your motors will not.
Every single board I have owned has failed on the switch, I have box of broken antispark and am still waiting for a loopkey to fail 
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I used to be a fan of flipshit when the old 6.6 dual came out. I must have got a really good unit because that thing was built like a brick shit house and took some serious punishment. It always just worked. Then i got the 6.6 dual plus and burned the drv after 4 rides, it was passed warranty. Ended up buying 2 more that also burned up, but I got a refund after filling a claim. Just save up for something better dude, its better to wait and get something good. Avoid the headache.
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Your motors generate power when they spin. If that power has nowhere to go, it will be heat up certain components of the ESC (not sure which components).
When the battery is hooked up, this generated power is fed directly back into the battery.
You can also get a product called a rheostatic brake (maytech sell one) that takes this current and dissipates it as heat.