Currently building a short board with a Flipsky FSESC6.7 and a pair of 6364 motors.
Everything works fine, except when I add a remote…
Only the ‘main’ board moves the wheels when using the Hoyt Puck as a 3pin PPM input. So one wheel moves rather than two.
When using the Flipsky VX2 in the COM port, the BLE adapter pairs with the remote but doesn’t send signals to the motors.
Tried swapping TX/RX but that didn’t help.
What is your control type set to? Have you set the input mode to uart or ppm respectivly. Vx2 can be a pain. Try flipping tx/rx again or when using the hoyt puck go through the input wizzard and make sure the settings for controlling both vescs are true. Also make sure vesc ids are different…
FFS this has tripped me up way more than I wanna admit.
I’ll double check 
I had the VX2 on another board with a Unity and it just worked 
Just had the remote set as VESC remote?
So… As I as was typing this, the VX2 ‘buy’ options are for EITHER VESC4/FOCBOX or VESC6… Looking at the schematics, it’s just TX/RX that’s flipped. I would think that’s the only difference?
Then a separate question.
There isn’t a pinout for a power button, so it looks like I need to add an anti spark switch module?
im not sure on the vesc 4 vs vesc 6 question if you have the wrong reciever it may be the issue but id wait for others to chime in. Ive used the for vesc 6 version and have always had a way to get it to work it just takes some figuring out. Be sure that your input type setting is appropriate. One more easy thing you could try is putting the reviever on the other side of the vesc.
As for an antispark switch, id steer clear. Go with a loopkey.
Only difference between a vesc4 and vesc6 flipsky reciever is the JST pinout. Re-pinning the connector in accordance with the VESC pinout should result in the proper connections being made. In the case of a flipsky VESC it should just be a difference of Tx and Rx being switched and perhaps a 7 pin vs. 8 pin connector.
Ah right, so rather than a switch use an anti spark XT90?
I’m guessing the pre made switch blocks burn out?
Yah use the xt90s as a key… im not sure why those switches suck so much but in my own experience ive had 2 that straight up didnt work. Theres tons of info on loop keys if you get confused.
To be fair i havent tested the specific switch you are asking about
Among other issues. Antispark switches fail in 2 main ways: open or closed. Open means you can’t turn your board on, closed means you can’t turn it off. Both are undesirable.
An XT90s loopkey can also blow, but it’s extremely cheap and easy to replace, unlike an antispark.
I assume they’re the same as when they integrate the anti spark into the ESC.
They’ve changed the design now, but the earlier V6.6 ESC’s I bought which had the three wire power buttons took the blink of an eye to kill the anti sparks, causing me to have to replace the mosfets each time until finding the cause.
The anti spark mosfet gates can float putting the mosfets into their linear state. To not blow the anti spark up 1. Have it switched on when connecting the battery, and 2. Use anti spark XT90 (with the internal pre-charge resistor) on the battery, even though common sense suggests this shouldn’t be a requirement.
