It’s probably how they secure the axle in the machine that makes the axle. (likely a lathe)
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Found a fun new problem while i was in there:
Broken winding… fuuuuk
Interesting that I never had a performance problem with this motor though. Is it worth it to clean the varnish and solder back together?
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Hmm do you have the detection results from before taking apart? Then you can compare to after you resolder that broken winding.
I am still trying to figure out why there is no grub screw. What is locking the rotation of the can to axle?? Not just glue surely.
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Ok, here is the final, hard won truth. I scienced this motor, because SCIENCE.
There are two small M4 set screws hidden deep within the blue epoxy filling both holes in the can. The shaft has two unthreaded cavities to align with those set screws.
If you’re going to replace a shaft in the latest gen Flipsky motors, I recommend drilling both holes out with a 7/64" (or 3mm) drill bit. There’s the outer plug, a gap, and then an interior plug on top of the set screw. You’ll know when you’ve hit the set screw - be gentle. Should take a 2mm hex key. You may have to dig out chunks of epoxy to get the hex key to bite.
Or, you can be like me and put the entire can under a hydraulic press.
Don’t be like me.
Now… after I check this steel shaft for straightness (which it most likely is still perfectly good), should I fill the aluminum can shaft hole with JBWeld and use a drill press to create a new, tighter mounting hole? Or see what high strength retaining compound can do instead?
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Never trust adhesives.
Go for the epoxy
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Is there a more permanent epoxy than JBWeld?
There are lots of different epoxies. JB Weld is a very hard epoxy. West System 650 would be the opposite of that. Both are hard, but JB Weld 8265 Original Steel is hard hard, like metal, you can drill and tap it and bolt to it. WS 650 is hard but not brittle hard. JB Weld 8265 can be cracked.
And then you have a bunch of other epoxies that are between those two, and then probably a million epoxies I have never even used.
If you only want to buy one, I’d get West System 105 + 206 OR Silvertip Epoxy, they are great all-purpose epoxies IMHO
For a rotor to shaft bond I would probably want a hard epoxy so it was less likely to work its way crooked.
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Make sure you clean the surface very well and even sand it lightly to ensure there are no oils on it.
And always, ALWAYS mix exactly according to directions. Exactly. Including stir time and everything.
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Ok, another option I was thinking about last night -
- Get a 10mm aluminum round bar, ideally oversized.
- Cut to length and epoxy into the hole.
- Clean up / face the end.
- Find the can center point (this will be the hard part)
- Drill press new hole, slight interference fit
- (Optional) drill out old set screw holes and tap one size larger
- Freeze old shaft
- Install shaft, epoxy in place (epoxy + cold may not work, but need some way to fix rotation, tbd)
This all basically amounts to an aluminum sleeve vs only epoxy. Which I like slightly better.
I was half right
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@sleepless, sorry to disturb this threads slumber but I’m having some real trouble finding the grub screws on my motor, I’ve dug out the blue epoxy and have fully made a hole into the motor space however I can’t seem to find the grub screw anywhere. My only hind is that I do see a hole but it isn’t aligned with either of the holes of the motor.
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lets level your account up so you can upload pics!
Keep posting
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you blessed man. Did you undergo the shaft swap in the end?
Referring to the 12th image on the thread, which is looking at the inside of the rotor or outside shell of the can.
Do I need to drill through that sliver part seemingly attached to the shaft of the inside of the motor to get to the grub screws? As it has this kind of ring on the outside.
This is the 12th image in the thread.
Did you mean this pic?
Lol this post could use an edit because of this update
I am really unsure of what to say. I don’t really know anything more than what is already shown in this thread. Best of luck on this!
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