Is the light on the charger itself green or red?
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LED 1 is red - per the manual (on Amazon) this is power on
LED 2 is green - per the manual it should be red while charging and green when fully charged.
The batteries are about 3.7 V on average so definitely not fully charged…
The loop key is not plugged in. Unfortunatly, been an hour an none of the voltages have changed on the BMS readings…
Plug in the loopkey and see if it charges.
Or send photographs of the wiring if you want someone to doublecheck it.
If wired correctly though, the loopkey should not need to be plugged in for it to charge.
Is it wired this way?
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That’s what I followed… I don’t have any lights yet so nothing on P-… Plugging in the loop key didn’t change anything.
Perhaps a way to check with a volt meter? It’s 9 PM here. so I may take it apart tomorrow 
You should tra to check the balance leeds, if one of the balance wire isn’t properly connected,
it’s most likely that the bms wont allow you to charge the battery
With a voltmetre just check that you got arround the same voltage between each pins of the jst connector
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I checked connectivity and the following checked out:
- between B- and the battery negative
- C- to the charging negative on the 5.5 * 2.1 connector.
- positive pin on the 5.5 * 2.1 has connectivity to both the battery + and battery -
I checked the BMS connections. The negative wire to negative out of the battery is 0, each successive wire increases about 4 ish volts up to 48. It’s a little less since the battery has drained some.
The LED 2 light is green (hard to see in the sun) which indicates it’s completely charged.
I’m unsure what I’m missing?
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You have up to 0.2v of diference between cells, i’m pretry sure the bms doesn’t let you charge with such a huge gap
You should have no more than 0.05 difference,
Where dis you get that battery from ?
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I made the battery. I used a LiitoKala Engineer Lii-500 to Nortest all of the batteries but they laid dormant for 3 months while I made the build.
Take it apart and charge them again with the LiitoKala?
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What cells are they and how do you plan to take them appart ?
I’d suggest to try charging each Pgroup one by one , very slowly using the balance wires and your litokala charger,
None of the cells seems to have reached a critical level, but i don’t think such a discharge is normal even for three months,
Edit : if you do that, take your time, use low amps charging, and don’t let the battery unatended, you don’t want a lipo fire
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I used a slightly modified version of the @winfly modular solderless holder for the batteries.
The batteries are Panasonic NCR18650BD and recommend to charge at 1 Amp. Since I have them in a 12S4P configuration my 4 Amp charger should be good. I’m not sure how to charge them with the LiitoKala without taking them apart?
the App has a “cell delta target” in mV. I wonder if that’s the setting that’s not allowing the batteries to charge?
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nope that is where it gives up and says good enough. Bigger the number the more delta allowed.
two pin JST connector through the balance leads can manually balance cells
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True, but if you’re suspecting your cells not to be legit / to have some sort of deficiency (if it got from 4.2 to 3.8 just standing assid in 3 month, it probably does) you wan’t to charge much slower than that,
Like 1A or .5A for the p group, and if you notice that the tzmpzrature of the pack is coing up, you disconect the charger imediatly.
Do you have some juper wires ?
You can solder one side of a jumper wire to one of the pole of your charger and an other to the other side,
then “plug” the jumper wires into the jst connector
(one side in - and one in 1 to charge the first pgroup, then one to 1 and one to 2 to charge the second one…)
That’s not beautifull, but it should work.
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There’s a point here : if the connections isn’t fusion level, you can get some weird resistance readings, i would not be to warry of the battery pack itself, but the sensor leeds and the charging port maybe
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This isn’t possible, or the battery would be a fireball or at least melt that wire away immediately.
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I’ll check that again. It was confusing to me that’s why I mentioned it.
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No, the negative from the XT90 negative lead goes to the B-. The negative from the charge port goes to the fuse then the C-. The positive from the charge port goes to the XT90 positive lead.
The braided tinned copper are soldered to XT90 essentially bridging the two connectors. So I have two female XT90 each with a 10Awg wire from one connector that lead to the loop key XT’s and I soldered the smaller gauge wires from the BMS and charge ports to the second connector. Hope that makes sense.
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That’s some weird ass wiring haha!
But should be safe I guess 
Just technically makes you able to switch the polarity by mistake… normal wiring would prevent that.
When will we see finally see some ride footage?
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Yea, I realized I should have used one male one female for each battery terminal. I double check before I plug either one in😄.
The riding footage isn’t too impressive yet! I don’t have any extension or camera holder. Don’t own any go pro’s or similar. And neither my son nor I are speed demons (yet). But I’ll post something once I resolve charging the battery.
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