290 is green. Blue 243 should work fine. I hear red is too hard to remove so I don’t use it.
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You can use red for anything you need to be permanent, like broken parts you bolted back together
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got it…thx.
I use JB Weld 8265-S Original formula if I want it permanent 
LoLz
Yes, sometimes on bolt threads. If I want it permanent.
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that could be useful one day…thx
Gonna level honest here, I’ve been using hot glue and zipties for everything so far
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I ‘repaired’ a set of Paris trucks with them, those mounts are not going anywhere!
I’ve seen that JB Weld in a lot of threads…that stuff is amazing.
I used to use hot glue but have since realized there is nowhere on an esk8 where you could use hot glue – where something else doesn’t work better. I use it for no part of esk8 now.
Anyone need a hot glue gun? LoL
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i was wondering about using hot glue on my pin connectors Im scared my remote wire will shake loose at 30 20 feet from a red light…you know
I used hot glue to support the wires on JST balance leads, wrap the wires so they all sit in a nice flat row then flood the joint with hot glue, and cut the excess away with a sharp knife. Not perfect but it’s strong and insulated
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Problem with hot glue is it melts if it gets hot – and it can pull away / crack over time, leaving water to enter places. GE Silicone 2+ does not suffer those issues, but is a PITA to work with compared to hot glue. But aside from workability, is better in every way.
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I’ive picked up both so cool. is Silicone safe on the connectors themselves or just as support so the wires won"t move?
If it’s a neutral-cure silicone – for example “GE Silicone 2+” in the USA, in the “Paint” section at a local large chain home improvement store – then it’s safe for just about anything. They even make food-grade neutral-cure silicones for food processing equipment and aquariums.
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Got my belts now I have to play the alighnment game. Center pulley to center pulley is like 111mm is that bad. I read its suppose to be like 60mm.
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Belts way too lose and the angle of the belt to idler is off. Maybe picture angles but looks wrong.
The idea of an idler bearing is to make more teeth on the pulleys engage in a normal rotation so that idler needs to move down from its position. Alignment is not a drama if you make sure that both pulleys have the exact same clearance from the motor plate. By that I mean that the teeth not the shoulder on both pulleys are the same distance from the flat plane of the plate. I use 2mm as a benchmark but I reverse my shoulder pulleys to make it easier to judge. Basically the thicker side out on the motor pulley.
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You often tell if a belt is aligned properly by rolling the wheel forwards with your hand about 10 turns – then rolling the wheel backwards with your hand about 10 turns – then rolling the wheel forwards with your hand about 10 turns. If the belt moves left or right depending on the direction you spin it, it’s probably not aligned perfectly. If it moves to the same spot regardless of direction, it’s probably perfectly aligned – or off by a lot. It doesn’t need to be perfectly aligned, but it helps.
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I take the speed washers off the inside of the wheel bearings then mount the motor plate so it’s flush up against the wheel pulley and touching it. Once you get the motor plate secured in the right place, and straight with the pulley, then just take the wheel off and add a single 1mm speed washer for clearance.
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Ok, thx. That helped with my belt size problem as well.
Lol, oh yeah Have not tightened things up yet. Thx