I have been in and out of the eskate world since 2017 but unfortunately my experience has been limited to an Evolve Bamboo GT when they first came out and a Boosted Dual motor. I loved the Evolve AT set up except for the range and it throwing me off during a top speed run. I have always loved the high end look of Lacroix but being in college at the time could never justify/afford one. 3 years later I work a boring desk job and need more speed in my life so welcome to my build thread.
Idea for this build was budget Lacroix Nazare Supersport. I have heard people love the feel of the Lacroix deck and I loved the flex of the Boosted board so that made that part easy. Most other things were used or on sale if I could find them. I also wanted to learn as much as possible about PEVs since Ive always wanted an electric racing kart and an Ebike for the wife. I figured my kitchen table is a perfect place to build a battery and Board over the next few weeks. My wife still strongly disagrees. Here is my first attempt at making something quality with no electrical experience whatsoever. Shout out to everyone who has answered questions for me so far.
Here is a list of parts I used for this build:
Lacroix Nazare Deck and enclosure (thanks @abusfullofnuns)
18s4p Battery built by me (first battery build) 72 Molicel P42A
LLT 18s BMS (pulled from nazare supersport)
MBS Matrix III trucks (thank you @andoug)
MBS Rockstar II hubs
Kenda 200mm tires
Xcell 62T Aluminum wheel pulley
6485 motors 138 kv from SKP (shout out @Skyart)
Makerx D100s VESC
Hoyt Puck
It connected right away and motors connected and setup properly. Im going to work on wiring up the BMS today and putting some final touches on the battery and wrapping up up with some tape better. More updates to come
Question about the D100s - It came with a supplied power button that I want to use. That has a 3 pin connector on it. The Hoyt puck also has a 3 pin connector (PPM?) What do I do? Do I need to convert the power button or puck to a different connector? For example, leave the power button as is and convert the Puck to fit the 4 or 8 pin connector that is open? Or Vice Versa? In this pic, green is currently power button, blue is Vesc bluetooth, red are 2 motor connectors and that leaves a 4 pin and an 8 pin left.
The green is the power switch and that stays there. I would move your (blue) bluetooth UART connection to the other side, and use an 8-pin JST connector to put the Puck receiver where your Bluetooth is currently. You’ll only need the 3 pins for the Puck receiver (5v, gnd, PWM).
@AlexB Got it, any reason why you would move that to the other side? Are they different or have software restrictions? or just an order that ‘makes sense’
Dude, you’re killing it. This build is hot. The 7 segment jaws / naz enclosure is the best thing lacroix ever made. The flex is better than the newer enclosures. I’m stoked for you.
18s is a good choice. You’ll enjoy the extra power.
Had a bit of time to do some more wiring. Definitely the most satisfying part of the build. BMS connected properly and was showing good voltages. Still waiting for the charge port, charger, belts and fuse for the charge leads. Still have to tape the battery up and add some foam to fill up the space in the enclosure. Overall pretty happy with how my battery turned out. I first put Fish paper down, soldered and organized balance leads, another layer of fish paper and then ran charge and discharge leads from the negative side with a fish paper cover. I wish these could be shorter but it would have complicated connecting the S groups more than i wanted. If I were to do it again I think I could have done it quite a bit faster and a little neater as well. I also got the Vesc to connect to bluetooth through the app and the controller to connect. Can’t wait for the first ride
Alright, last question before she is up and running. For the BMS, it has a ton of config. settings. I see a bunch of screenshots on other posts but they all look a little different or maybe are older versions. Can somebody, preferably with an 18s board, post there configs? this is what Im looking for
Are there no defaults loaded? If you hit “BMS read” it should load up all the parameters, and make it easy for us to see if anything should be tweaked.
Thank you @glyphiks I think it came out really good for a first one. I can’t emphasize it enough, this forum and its members are top tier. Hopefully a second more portable urethane build is in the not too distant future…
I like to set my delta for balance to 25mv but it’s not critical and is definitely a personal preference. I just don’t want to balance tighter than that after the initial first charge (opinion only). Nice build man
For NTC checkboxes, you should uncheck any that don’t have a temp probe connected.
For example if you don’t have a temp probe on NTC3, it will read something like -40 and prevent you from charging. (Because the BMS protects from low temp charging)
If all 3 currently checked NTC boxes have probes and normal readings, you’re fine.
Was out of town for a couple weeks but finally got the chance to ride it and the power is insane. Still cant believe people are going HV and 4wd to put more power down. Im sure like everything else it will begin to feel normal but it makes my old boosted board and evolve feel like a toy. One potential issue I am having is when I spin it up unloaded and hold it at max RPM it makes a clicking/rattling noise. I was getting overcurrent faults so I turned the slow ABS current limit on and now I don’t get any faults but the clicking noice is still happening. Is this normal? Is there any settings or anything I should check? You can just hear it in this video. Almost like it cycles off then right back on nearly instantly. It sounds like its from the motors, i have no noise except at the max RPM.
Heads up, the d100s sets garbage max current limits when you do the detection wizard (like 75a), even though the default max is 300a on maker x 6.02 .bin file.
Make sure your absolute max current is set to 300a per side. Go back to default (false iirc) for slow abs max current.
If you aren’t running 6.02, update to that.
Also, maker x told me over whatsapp yesterday that d100s has phase filters, and they should be turned on. So make sure that is the case, and redo detection if you find that they were turned off before.
I increased max current limits and confirmed phase filtering and no luck. Thankfully I was able to update to 6.02 over Bluetooth so didn’t have to open up the board. Got everything setup and the noise is gone. Hoping to get a longer test ride in some time this week.
