Can also position the rod mounts wider…
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Would you mind sharing those puck files? I really like that design and would love to add it to The puck case database
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Found that when I tried this the rod ends would end up hitting the baseplate (the MLR Logo side) at max lean, so I just have it set to as wide as I could without them hitting there.
edit: adding an image
Will dig them up but they are just a 5min modification to @DougM 's Puck case to add the little fingers and close up some holes.
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Stripped the board back down and skinning the bottom side with CF to gain a little bit of stiffness considering the deck is designed to be a cruiser. Learnt a couple lessons as this was my first time skinning something so it’ll fugly af but luckily mostly hidden anyways
Back together again with an unintentional new grip design 
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board looks fantastic, how does she ride?
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Luckily, I was able to head to Cologne for the weekend where Nelson (No Limits to Ride) was hosting two back to back track nights. Hence got a proper shakedown of the refreshed build.
It feels much more confident now around higher-speed corners, with a much more muted deck flex. However, it has also sacrificed a little of its agility in the low-speed stuff as I no longer get as much truck angle due to the increased stiffness.
Finally got to try @Dinnye’s RaceBoi again and compare it back to back with our more complete builds.
First thing I’ve got to say is that I’m becoming a @Titoxd1000 shill as well cause man do those trucks just feel so natural to me. Not sure what it exactly it is but I found myself more at home on a board I’ve ridden once than my own (bar throttle and brake control), but I think it’s a combination of trucks and WFBs, as much as I feel pretty good on three links I can’t seem to get used to the progression of the bushings (skill issue) leading to me sometimes over leaning the board and having to correct on corner entry.
I still love the deck length and shape of my own board and the responsiveness I enjoy with the shorter wheelbase so maybe I’ll bring back Bence’s RaceBro build at some point?
Anyway hope ya’ll enjoy some footage of me chasing @Dinnye
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You guys are flying! Looks super fun!
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Cool. Seems like wfb is good for racing if you like very low rebound. Do you and @Dinnye still think 100a wfb is needed after more riding time. I can probably work something out with @RipTideSports to make this a option.
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It’s definitely a preference thing how far up someone goes in duro. Depends on the angles as well and the person’s weight. I am about 82kg/ 180lbs, so definitely not on the heavy side, and I like a fairly loose setup, now running roughly the conventional angles (35/12.5).
I think back when I was running a flexy deck with super low angles 100A would have been quite a large benefit for me, and probably the ideal setup for basically anyone heavier than me. At that point the sweet spot might have been 95/100 front 100/100 rear, the board felt quite loose at 95 all around.
Now on a long stiff deck and more conventional angles, I still feel like 100A has a place, but I think I would only want it in the rear for now. This is partially because I am no longer running sub 30 front. But someone heavier might want it for the front as well.
The setup I would like to try is 95/95 barrels front, 95/100 chubby rear.
95 all around required barely tightened front and overtightened rear to feel nice. A single 93 in the front made it so that I don’t need to overtighten the rear, but a better way to achieve it would have been a single 100 in the rear, on the current angles.
There should be also a paragraph on throttle here. While I am on the throttle, I get much more rebound from the trucks, because the motors want to keep me straight. Once I let off the throttle, on the current setup, the board feels very loose. But as soon as I push the throttle a bit, or even worse try to trail brake, I have a ton of rebound coming from the motors. I feel the next logical step in my boards progression would be torque vectoring, at which point the 93/95 95/95 might actually get way too loose for me. I have ideas how I can implement it and if all goes well I will have that running for next season.
Also at the moment, this large difference of truck feel between throttle and cruising, seems to promote a very point and shoot, aggressive brakes, cruise through corner but don’t trail brake much riding style. A smoother more race line oriented riding style could be faster but would need the torque vectoring and a stiffer bushing to feel “right”.
Potentially even without torque vectoring it could be an interesting thing to try that duro up - because it would make this throttle to cruising truck feel difference less. But it could potentially make the trucks too tight for short track without torque vectoring. On longer tracks like AVS and especially the TEF1, I think they would be very advantageous. Can’t say for sure until I try.
So yeah, I think in these trucks 100A makes sense for some, it’s probably mostly going to be used by heavier riders, riders who prefer lower angles, or race machines that figure out torque vectoring. Long track might be advantageous without torque vectoring as well, but here in the EU we race short - medium tracks. The market is not so much the average person and definitely not large but it exists.
@TZDKB also wanted to try 100A wfb in his newbee RTKPs a while back on his offroad mountainboard.
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Good explanation. I was thinking 100a for the rear in chubby shape or custom shape depending how testing goes on those.
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Well, I guessed I hopped onto the Duality train faster than I expected. Fellow Brit @hatman was selling his Dualities so I did the un-responsible thing and bought em.
Season finals for the European champs are coming up at the end of next week, so this is going to be yet another tight turnaround build.
The month started off not great with another blown front D100s (same side, and with two different sets of 6355s) so I took the chance and bought two Onsra 16s ~90a escs to try out.
Cramming the ESCs in
Since the Onsra escs are a good chunk bigger than the D100s I ended up quickly altering (ruining) newbee’s enclosure design by cutting a couple of holes to run cables as well as the bits of the esc that don’t fit.
and voila, they more or less fit. Messy job but it’ll do for now.
I’ve ridden the 14s variants of this jk-escs and felt they had adequate power in 2WD so thought I’d give them a shot in 4WD. Unbeknownst to me they don’t like my 6355s up front, as well as my 205kv motors. These are originally optimised for 6390 150kv motors.
more ESC issues
In the beginning, the 55s were throwing overcurrent faults when getting past 60% throttle at semi-low speeds (10-20kph) so I ended up turning the front ESCs down to about 40% (which I wanted to anyway) and this solved the issue. Though it unearthed the complete lack of torque that this esc was delivering, I’ve accelerated faster on the 2WD Velar than this
Seeing as there isn’t enough time to get a new d100s before finals, I guess I’ll have to ride even smoother than usual and rely less on power. The idea of running 4x Hobbywing Max 6s has crossed my mind as I’m not a fan of how volatile VESCs can be, and until the ESC from the Agent will be able to support 16s (though they run 110kv stock so who knows if it’ll even work), I guess I’ll be back on the d100s.
Don’t worry @davidpilny I’ll still be sure to put up a fight. (or we could call it a truce and both not score points 
)
Moving back to the Dualities, getting these fitted in time for the race will also be quite the task. I didn’t have motor mounts and thought the Idea motor mounts were a bit pricy especially since I needed four (also lead times are too long). So I went ahead and designed my own laser-cut mounts to fit newbee’s 22*22 clamp. Twas my first time designing something to be manufactured so was a fun little experience. I only wanted a simple mount that would be able to fit my 13/67 open gear drive setup
I was quite pleased to find out that despite being set to ~60mm c2c and as far inside the hanger as possible I don’t get any motor bite with 6384s (270 hangers too). I’m running a lil 2mm bump stop instead of lean stoppers too, which should net me around 30degs of truck angle. So off to the laser cutter it is.
It’s estimated to get in on Tuesday next week along with new axle spacers and some alu tubes to run between the mounts. I’ll only have 1 day to assemble it all before I have to drive down the Prague. Should be interesting.
I also have to thank @Ash @Titoxd1000 and @Dinnye for being patient and putting up with my consistent slew of questions, it helped a lot for trying to figure this build out on a tight deadline.
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Do you think having these fully open will make accessing the pinion/motor easier instead of having to unscrew 2 bolts everytime you want to do it?
I could just not run that piece, I just added it for a lil additional rigidity. Also acts as a spacer to ensure my 250mm rods will be long enough. Plus 2 extra screws to remove a motor doesn’t bother me.
It shouldn’t need it anyways since the mounts are 8mm 7075.
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I’m currently running a set of custom IDEA mount and they’re thick, like 10mm 7075. Do you have your shaft slot big enough that you can fit the pinion gear?
Any idea what’s causing the d100’s to pop? Were you on 6.02?
Just a heads up, with 8mm thick lasercutting its very likely the cut edges will not remain perpendicular to the faces and be quite rough (laser focus is only true at a very small range of distance from the emitter, at 8mm material thickness you’re probably going to be well into the rougher cutting zone of it) You may need to do some significant post processing to get the cuts to clean up.
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Nice!!! I hope the duality trucks serve your well.
Good to hear that this combo worked out
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Nope, on the stock 5.02? firmware. First time it popped was on the bench under braking, this time I was just cruising (25kph) and went over a fairly large crack in the road and it popped. Both times it popped the right side fets off so maybe phase filtering or smthin? (I’ve got no clue)
Ah darn, good to know though. Maybe worth shelling out for CNCed ones down the line if I end up liking my design.
Yup it’s sized with just enough clearance for my set of pinion gears. I’m not too worried about bending mounts since this board only gets ridden on the track so isn’t going through the same amount of shock and stress as my MTBs would.
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After a D100s popped in Nothing Fancy, they updated the store page with these suggestions
Recommended operating voltage <20S (84V)
Recommended motor KV ＜130
Any chance you were pushing these? (Sorry if I missed this info higher up in the thread)
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