finally building a raceboard - 4WD 3-Link w/ the Brady Cruiser deck

So finally after years of racing on an Exway Atlas, I’ve finally made my mind up and decided to build my all-out race-board. I’d like to apologise in advance for how much of a messy read this thread will be :frowning:

So what do I want out of a board?

  1. 4WD - With the majority of racing here in Europe on indoors, extremely tight and slippery, kart tracks I wanted something that both has the traction off the line and the ability to brake significantly harder.
why I like 4wd

Since I’ve been racing 4WD boards for a while now, it’s become really enjoyable to modulate the power out of corners whilst sliding the rears out as you know the fronts will just pull you back straight even if the rears are having a hard time. Plus I don’t think I would survive without 4 wheel braking on track anymore (though Morgan and Mario consistently prove this wrong), the amount of deceleration you get with 4WD just feels on a different level to just rear brakes and gives me significantly more confidence braking later into corners.

  1. Short-ish: Being only 169cm tall (~5”6’ in freedom units), I’ve somewhat struggled with riding longer decks (though chatting with @fessyfoo about his adaption to riding longer decks this may change). Plus the short-track nature of European tracks (esk8con felt like a long-track to us) there isn’t too much a need for high speed stability and the flick-ability of a shorter deck is much more enjoyable for me personally.

  2. Dropped Standing Platform: Whilst I actually quite enjoyed many aspects of the Atlas deck, this was my biggest gripe with it. I felt like I was miles above the ground, and especially after getting the chance to ride @MetroLinkX4 v5 at i2s last year I knew I needed to get as close to axel height on this board as possible

why I didn’t just go with a v5

Whilst the v5 platform feels great, I wasn’t personally a fan of the length, despite Ron’s board being setup much looser than I would prefer (I’m nearly double his weight), to me it still lacked a little bit of responsiveness on turn in. In addition I had really bad scraping issues both toe-side and heel-side to the point where I’d basically be riding on the enclosure which lead to quite a few low-sides as I’m used to being able to have fairly steep deck-angles whilst turning.

  1. Reliability: The main reason I’ve chosen the Atlas Pro for racing the past few years is due to a constant slew of reliability issues I’ve had with VESCs, from ABS faults to just random explosions (back in the focbox days) I’ve since always found it hard to 100% trust a VESC when pushing it. Hence for this build I’ll be testing my luck with the d100s, though I do have backup plans with Onsra and Exway ESCs in case any issues decide to resurface regards to this.
benefits to racing a production board

Although they probably wouldn’t be particularly competitive on longer tracks, production boards I find can still hold their own in short-track events. The peace of mind to know your board just works, every, single, time, is just so much nicer. In addition, at the track I don’t need to think much about the technical aspects, which is just such a relief from back when I was racing VESC based boards. Racing a production board was also the only way I could’ve competed at esk8con, due to the costs of shipping/new batteries, it would’ve been quite difficult to get to Vegas. I asked Exway prior to the event if I could borrow a Atlas, and they very kindly leant me one of their demo boards for the weekend (shoutout Exway Canada), all I did was bring my bushings and a front toe hook.

Specification:
Deck: Morgan Brady / David Bonde collaboration deck
Trucks: Meepo- @MoeStooge - @Madesk8 3-links
Battery: 16s5p p42a courtesy of @BigBen
ESC: 2x MakerX d100s
Motors: Radium 6355 + 6384 205kv
Drives: SRB Open Gear Drives 67t w/ 12t or 15t

v1
With the majority of the parts finally on hand, it began time to test fit everything together and see if there are an compatibility issues. I’ve also set myself the deadline of finishing the board before xErace which is in less than 2 weeks :confused: so this whole board will be a time crunch.

@davidbonde and @Mbrady really did an amazing job on the deck, to the point where I felt bad assembling it up as I’m not doing it any justice haha.

Initial Issues:
Once I installed the trucks there was an immediate glaring issue of ride height, since the production version of the collab 3-Links use a much thicker jam nut when compared to the ones at esk8con the total ride height of board was really high, thinner nuts were then sourced. Despite the thinner nuts, the board still sat 3cm above axel height which is far from the ~1cm that would be achievable with SRB 3-links. Otherwise, the countersink on one side of the motor plate meant that my Reachers wouldn’t fit onto the motor plates at all, hence it’ll be running some flipshit ones till I get my SRB 3-links in.

Racing it for the first time:

Managed to finish the board the night before I had to start driving down to Czech, was really surprised I actually got it done but unfortunately, it was pouring outside (typical UK weather eh) so never got to actually ride it before it went into the car.


Here it is at xErace next to @philo (hopefully I tagged the right person) brady deck with SRB 3-Links

Ultimately came 3rd with @Esk8Cave getting the W this time. I’m still very much trying to get used to the trucks. Afterwards, @davidpilny and I headed back to Prague for some further shakedowns and for me to better tune the board and get used to how the trucks feel.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/EimmEiatL39dbxFg9 - Onboard footage w/ telemetry of the Shakedowns

During the shakedowns, I noticed two major problems I wanted to address, the rebound characteristics and braking ramping time.

Rebound Characteristics

I’ve found that I wanted more on-center resistance with less resistance deeper in the lean, if any of ya’ll three-link veterans have any tips I’m all ears. I’ve managed to get closer to this with a harder durometer WFB on RKP and DKP, and going to the three-links I struggled to run the board as loose as I wanted to without sacrificing high-speed stability

Braking Issues

I’ll delve deeper into this with an update as a ESC decided to unalive itself on the bench when testing this.

Overall though, I’m really enjoying the deck shape and length (the current trucks extend the wheelbase too much but I like the standing length) so hope I’ll be able to further iterate on this platform and build the raceboard that I want.

18 Likes

Nice build! You really have to be careful with HV and bench testing things

I’ve been told by @Skyart that it’s not a good idea to freewheel and brake while on the bench with my 18s 205kv setup on Solos. Something about BEMF, I would imagine it may be a similar story on D100s

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I’ve wondered how the mad-links would work with the Morgan Cruiser deck. Would love to see more pictures of the completed build if possible!

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Nice build, can’t wait to race this in person! Do you think you’ll get it ready for Waldshut?

Bad luck with the D100S, since I blew up mine I am worried to freespin it ever again or use an erpm limit.

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Vesc in general is going to struggle with pur racing setups, we are stressing these controllers to their absolute limits. And current isnt even really rhe issue here. Its the votage spikes which can happen not only on breaking.

Having said this, it is odd that 16s and 205kv blew this D100s this isnt a particularly stressful scenario.

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Damn dude excited for your journey but that blows literally hearing about the esc. Another D100s bites the dust. Get @YUTW123 to fix/replace for you. 190kv @16s is gotta be well within the limits

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We’ll see, it’ll depend on whether I get controllers in time or not. Looking into going Hobbywing (esk8 not RC) as that’s what I’m used to and trust more, I’m alright loosing some power for stability.

Yea was definitely a weird situation, it sounded like one motor jammed up on the brakes and squelched a little just before it blew. Not sure how that happened but it is what it is.

Yup, I should be getting a new one soon :slight_smile:

Thanks! Excited to embark on it after putting it off for soo many years haha

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i used to have this problem as well on sidewinder. i used to run my trucks pretty tight because to be quite frank, i was scared. i needed more turn but didn’t want to loosen the trucks more because they would start to feel too lively compared to what i was used to and i felt that i lost the top speed stability i wanted. @Skyart actually convinced me to loosen them up some more and they feel so much better now. it’s just something that you have to get used to running them looser than you may feel is right. especially if you’re on a smooth track, you can set the bushings up pretty loose. you can also ask @MoeStooge or @RipTideSports for advice with bushing setup or possible even get different formulas

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What made you go with the stooge trucks over the newbees you have?

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Is there another way to build a board then on a tight deadline? I haven’t found one personally😂

Wow, another dead D100s. I think that makes 3 in the past couple weeks

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Flip your bushing washers from cupped to flat side.
This will decrease the ramping effect the cup has over the bushing and soften the compression curve allowing more preload with reduced compression at full tilt.

Drill baseplate holes and setback to desired wheelbase.

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Ride Height, the mad-links with a thinner jam nut gets you a lower ride height compared to newbees (plus my newbee trucks are still stuck in Vegas post esk8con shippim qualms)

Yea I’ll definitely get to tuning the board more and more once it’s back up and running, I’ve always personally been a fan of WFBs so possibly in the future??

Thanks! Will definitely give that a shot. On a slightly different note, it seems the width between the links isn’t adjustable on the collab trucks (wider and the links hit the baseplate), is there possibly a way to achieve a wider width possibly?

Unfortunately, there’s only about a cm of space between the back of the baseplate and the beginning of the drop, so don’t think I can get it all the way back to where I want it to be.

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ironically so are mines (specifically the front truck i broke there). i’m waiting for the novas to come back in stock and then i’ll have mboards ship them back with the tires.

since the board is down I decided to do a couple quality of life upgrades:

Changing to hex standoffs on the drives, so I can finally change tyres without having to disassemble the whole thing. The DM1 has one of my favourite tyre swap systems, with the inner rim housing the bearings hence the outer rim is free to release after just 5 screws (IMO easier and faster than most quick-release systems if you have a drill on hand).

On a different note, it seems the motor pinions have a profile that better matched the wheel gears when I compared them to @davidpilny. His seemed to be more of a rounded profile on the teeth?

What it used to be

also decided to take a couple of pictures of the board









pls ignore the bushing configuration right now, been procrastinating putting the greens on the rear

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before you try this, may i suggest trying the reds in front, whites in rear and lowering the steering angle on the rear so that it’s closer to flat? moe suggested it to me after he saw how tight i was running my rear bushings

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Finally got this board back up and running again just in time for xErace Montreval though I’ve had the chance to quite a few things change since the last update.

Changelog:

  • 4x 205kv Reacher Motors instead of the Flipshit ones
  • Changed from VX4 to Puck
  • Redid all the fire-damaged wiring
  • Attached the enclosure to the deck with some VHB tape (to get rid of some deck flex and to make it more sealed, not actually to attach the battery up)
  • Had my fair share of issues with vesc tool (who knew it supports Apple Silicon and hates my Windows laptop)

For the first time, I had a couple days spare before it was then packed up to drive down to xErace Montreval. I think I’ve just hit around 9000kms of driving this summer to get to all the races.

Overall fairly content with where the board is right now, running a conservative tune of 45/125 motor amp split giving me just enough power to play around with for now.

Unfortunately lost to @davidpilny by 0.84 in the time trials, but was fortunate enough to pip him in the challenge race (regular head-to-head race).

Race Results


^ Time Trials


^ Challenge Race

Some footage of me chasing @davidbonde with RaceBox telemetry

Despite being overall relatively happy with the current setup there are still things on the wishlist.

  • Stiffer Deck - Since this deck was originally designed to be a cruiser and for someone lighter than me there’s just a little bit too much flex so in the coming months I plan to carbon skin the bottom with either 1 or 2 sheets to give it just a little bit more strength.

  • Deck Angle Limitations - Noticed this first at esk8con that the links hit the baseplates of the Meepo/Stooge 3 Links but was assured that with higher link angles this would be a non-issue. Unfortunately, it’s still an issue. Despite running the steepest link angle possible as well as a couple degrees of extra angle (~2degs) due to the truck being slightly mounted on the drops of the deck (whole different story) I find that in slow-speed corners I can easily hit this limit and it completely throws me off balance. Apart from mounting truck hardware inversed with a low profile screw, I don’t see any immediate fixes to this.

  • Finding Center - Wasn’t a fan of how vague the centre point is with a regular amount of preload (2 turns after snug) on the White/Green combo so moved back to a Red/White combo with quite a lot of preload on the bushings and felt much more comfortable. Maybe this could be solved by a lower rebound formula and higher durometer bushings? @RipTideSports? Not sure how much this applies to 3-Links but this is a feeling I love about the WFB formulas on DKP and RKP. Though changing from cup washers to flat washers has definitely helped a bunch to get closer to how I like my trucks to feel, thanks @MoeStooge!

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Easy fix smaller motors :stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes:. But I mean it might help cause you’re only running 45amps front anyways why use 6485.

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Are the meepo links metric? Can’t flip those rod mounts below the axle? Or maybe find a similar collar to the og stooge mounts?

Glad to see a set of these out in the wild.

Shorten your rod length. This will rake back your rod mounts and get you desired clearance.

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Ah, I was under the impression that the collars should be relatively perpendicular to the ground for an optimal setup. Will give this a try though.

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