I did some business with these guys for my current build and their customer service is great…
I know it’s not fiber glass, but it’s vacuum bagged.
3 Likes
So many more variables involved bro (length, layup direction, fabric type, fabric weight, shape, etc. etc).
Maybe look here (not foam core but good info):
3 Likes
Given your complex geometry with integral stiffeners there are only two ways you could reliably get that answer. Built a Finite Element Model or trial and error.
Guess I missed this post on my original read… oops
1 Like
The roarockit kit is essentially a wine bottling vac pump that’s up charged. I’m gonna do a write up later this week.
I used the roarockit kit to add 3 layers of maple and FG to a 5 ply sector nine deck to stiffen it and provide thickness for routing a battery area and threaded inserts.
I used the same pump and valve in a standard FG vacuum bag to do the layup on my enclosure. Worked perfectly. This was a test for a future project, and i used some very light roving cloth i had. So there’s a lot of texture. Used peel ply as well. Essentially was able to vac bag a FG part without a loud pump in a 1 BR apartment with $20 in supplies. This was a skin over a 3D printed enclosure. Details came out perfect
Roarockits bag kit is great for adding strength to existing boards or potentially creating from scratch. But if it’s enclosures alone, getting proper vac bag from a FG business and using a wine pump will get you better results for 1/4 the price.
Recent roarockit maple x3 FGX3 (5mm addition). West sys epoxy
9 Likes
Those look awesome!
Do you know anywhere to get the red mesh stuff besides the kits?
I’m trying to create my own version to save some shekels.
1 Like
That’s just plastic netting. The breather cloth above the peel ply does the same thing. Just helps air travel to the pump.
It’s not the same as a vac pump. We’re essentially doing a static pull and leaving it. I left a spot or two that didn’t wet out perfect. But in general, hand layup and wet out. Then the vac bag will pull the excess through the peel ply and absorb by the breather cloth.
1 Like
You gonna paint this enclosure or keep it raw?
I had some charcoal color, will have to experiment with getting a deeper color. It’s painted now black
5 Likes
thats great info, I am going to DM you about the West System epoxy… just got a gallon of it for my project.
1 Like
Some updates:
I’m sticking with the top-side lid, but I’m working on a system for preventing water ingress.
I’m currently basing the deck on downhill/speed board designs sorta:
- I’ve gone for a 42" total deck length (I’m 6’4" and have a wide stance)
- Board will be 10" at its widest point
- There’s a bit of drop down, just over an inch
- 2.25" enclosure-ground clearance space
Right now I’m looking at grip options for when I finish this thing… What are our thoughts?
- Senderize it w/ frit!
- Try to senderize it myself
- Paintjob & clear grip
- Regular grip (laaaame)
0 voters
Skinning and fritting an integrated deck with a top lid fucking sucks balls 
its so tedious.
But I encourage you to try, so I’m not the only sucker.
4 Likes
I’m gonna be spending so much time on this already I’m not sure I want to 
I’ve been drawing up designs for griptape patterns cause I think that might be the best effort:sexiness ratio 
1 Like
Definitely the easy option!
1 Like
Then again, who said everything should be easy… muahaha
I might meet halfway and try spraypaint + frit cause I know a guy who’s really good at spraypainting.
2 Likes
That would definitely be a lot easier than skinning…
Hydrodip?
3 Likes
I definitely don’t have the technical prowess to do a good hydrodip lmao.
1 Like
I may or may not be changing the makeup of this board…
I have a bunch of really nice white ash lying around and I’m thinking about doing some kind of combined wood-fiberglass-epoxy sammich…
I’ve also acquired new ESC’s that I’m super excited about and am designing a heatsink to CNC and integrate into the deck… More to come.
Could you post a shopping list with links for your 20$ Roarockit alternative? please.
3 Likes
