Yes.
I would avoid the idlers unless you have a specific problem that you are solving with them.
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One more thought for the clamp:
Using a through bolt with a nut on the other side vs being theaded into the aluminum would make it more secure, reduce the risk of stripping the aluminum threads, and would be cheaper to manufacture
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… and you can use a nylon locking nut, instead of 
threadlocker
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Sorry, last last thing lol
The mount should be slightly wider than the motor. This helps protect the motor from ground strikes.
And they can take a lot of hits!
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An aluminium thread is just a bolt through in the making. 
Not fully, idlers allow for variation in belt length and are kinda needed for large wheel pulleys, as otherwise the belt starts slipping on the motor pulley.
I’m not sure how that affects the closing up? Also you don’t really need an idler for your setup, they make more sense for big wheels pulleys, like 60T+.
Small mounts make your motor look bigger though. 
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Last last last thing
Check the diameter of the motor shaft opening. Some motors have a somewhat flush circlip that needs a larger diameter not to rub. At least a 15mm opening. BN uses 16mm.
Good work so far though. Hopefully this doesn’t come off as nitpicking. I went through this process with some personal mounts and there are all sorts of things you don’t even know you don’t know until you start abusing them.
The Torque v6 mounts were some of the worst designed mounts I’ve ever had the pleasure of using. Never do this.
The grub screws deform the aluminum hanger and eventually the mount loosens up.
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agree
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Just a little nitpick, the printed parts would have been much stronger if you had instead increased the perimenter count to completely fill in the part.
You mean like 100 perimeters or something?
Check out how it broke though… across the layers. The design isn’t optimized for plastic, as it’s clear that the thin area that it stresses was too much for both, maybe a double clamp like the BN mounts use would be better for plastic.
I also haven’t seen anyone use a pure 3d printed mount, but maybe someone has successfully done it. Most seem to have at least a metal plate for reinforcement or something.
Yeah.
True, would still need to be much thicker.
Lets not get offtopic though.
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What’s up with the extra deep dogbone on the hanger profile?
Feel free to flag this if off topic, but 2 of my mounts are actually $22 to ship to UK, not $35.
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Any shallower, and the screw length will need to be increased. Despite the extra material, it wouldn’t have much benefit as there is not enough material to add an extra set of positioning holes. So I figured, keeping everything as contained as possible within the circular boundary is the best and most aesthetically pleasing solution
Doesn’t Nexus Boards stock BN products in the UK?
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Only helical gear drives as far as I can tell from the website
Ah, that’s for strain relief when the clamp is tightened
It’s wrong, I can refund the difference.
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