Spring for 30q/vtc6 or better.
You’ll thank us later
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Just a quick question in the comparison of 25R and 30Q. One will provide more range vs one providing more amp output?
30q has been proven to be comfortable at 20a output, possibly at the cost of the lifespan of the cells. I’m sure @Battery_Mooch could elaborate on this.
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Based on what I have observed, 25R provide only a cost benefit, 30Q seem better in all ways electrically
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okay so how about P42A’s?
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Molicel P42A are 21700 form factor and won’t fit in the enclosure
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but if a new enclosure was made for them specifically would those outperform that of the 30Q
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Most certainly, yes, they outperform the 30Q many times over, but they are much larger physically and more expensive, so it’s not a fair comparison.
You’d be more accurate comparing a 10S4P 30Q battery to a 10S2P or 10S3P P42A battery.
I would work with the enclosure you have though, and not change the cell form factor.
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I see what youre sayin. With 7" AT wheels on it i have a bit of wiggle room with making a new enclosure. I would love those batteries though.
Well P42 batteries has become a “golden standard” in this circles for a 21700 size. You can’t go wrong with them.
As I can see what 30q was for 18650 that’s P42 for 21700.
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A lot of voltage sag though. You’re losing riding time to that. If you’re up at 20A/cell try the P26A. It will run verrrrry nicely at that level.
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This + everything else in this thread tells me that my GTR is a waste of money to upgrade and I should just leave it stock and if I want bioboard thorium performance out of my evolve GTR I should just buy a bioboard thorium, put a lid on my wishful fantasies and quit trying to figure out how I can cheaply molest my nissan leaf to perform like a tesla p100d. Thanks for your help everyone.
Goal added to the list - purchase a bioboard plutonium and stop faffing about.
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You, my friend, are smarter than the average bear
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Just realised, I may have come across as some sarcastic prick on the earlier post. No harm intended. But I like our OP also share a similar interest in hoping to find the holy grail on GTR upgrades to improve performance. Mainly range torque and speed. Turns out from this and other readings, it is better to just leave this board stock and if you want a better board, build a new board from scratch or buy a high performance board.
Am in the process of converting the 2014 gen 2 evolve carbon series board into a better board. Out with the old speed controller, and in with the flipsky 6.6vesc. Out with the old trucks, in with the TB218’s. Add a couple of 6384 190kv flipskys, few belts, pulleys, nuts an bolts. Bit of solder and shrink wrap. Ride her til the battery carks it and then get some12s8p 30q’s or 12s6p p24’s lodged up under there with a deeper enclosure an she’l be right mate 
That should keep me from upsetting a perfectly fine production board, despite thr GTR’s obvious limitations.
16046306707248176340578528724258|375x500
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I completely agree with you man. These boards are not for the DIY people…I wish it was easier…But alas, it’s gotta be a pain in the ass
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True
You better sell your GTR
For that ~1000 USD you can build a much better board
Something like
Bustin Sportster Deck
Eboosted Sportster enclosure
Maybe original Evolve dkp trucks (with Flipsky or similar 6374 motor mounts)
10 or 12s4p 30q
Maytech 6374 or Flipsky 6374/6354 (new battle hardened motors)
MakerX DV6
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I’ve been trying to sell it that’s the issue lmfao. No one wants it
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It seems like (at least here in NZ) proliferation in electric mobility information and uptake with boards scooters etc has gone a bit nuts over the last few years so its getting harder to pawn off these relatively expensive boards with weak componentry to ignorant newbies anymore, unless you are okay to lose money in the sale. So I’ve decided to just keep mine as my most reliable board (I guess, at least for the meantime), and have other board(s) to hotrod.
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