this is a free sample Mario donated, but I’ll be using wider braid next time. I don’t like the prospect of a single connection like that though. I like having dual connections for redundancy but I should be confident enough in my soldering to not want two.
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It’s a braid so technically it’s a bunch of connections
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My two brain cells say otherwise. By that logic, my 12awg high strand wire is like 2000 connections
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@Evwan
I found it’s much easier if you clamp something metal in the middle of the braid and it helps it not soak up any solder
Also if your not already, use tinned braid (makes it a lot easier)
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Can vouch for @Evwan’s work. Extremely happy with my Omakase battery, and it has yet to let me down on my steep college campus. He was great with communicating his progress and worked around my awful schedule to get it to me over my short break back home. 10/10 battery vendor imo.
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got a picture of your board?
Months later I finally decided to get off my ass and start finishing projects. 16s3p mtb pack is finally done, and i’m already thinking about upgrading (for carvepdx)
This pack was annoying. I got creative with the balance leads and it came out nicely, but it was a lot of work. Balance planning and execution took about 3 hours, which isnt bad. I did have to solder directly to the nickel but the soldering iron spent no more than 3 seconds on the nickel at 300C, so im not worried.
More pictures are in the original post above ^^^
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yeah something like that
With battery series connections, of course both ways have pros and cons, but one major downside of having multiple series conductors is that if one were to become unconnected, then you would never know about it, but you’d have a super hot spot in your battery, which is bad.
That being said, I use parallel series conductors as well.