Valhalla sho stopper 38" with riptide psd inside footstop in front, aero out in rear, bronsons g3, vicious griptape on sensorless Direct drive motors 2wd usually would be 4wd. And 3dservias adjustable baseplates 45° front and 35° rear. Krank 90a chubby barrel rear and dual 90a chubby front.
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Ewww calibers lol, but sick yeah more esk8 ppl need to get on the split-angle truck game. Mine is at 46/42, just enough to help stability but still allows me to ride switch
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Have there been any esk8 races where it was urethane wheels only ? Thinking our Chicago scene would have two separate race categories, urethane & rubber.
Also about weight classes, do you think it would be based on weight of the board or the rider ? Or even a combination of the two ?
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Do you find there is a big difference for asphalt? On dry ground I reckon plush urethane should be pretty competitive vs rubber wheels
Would actually be cool for sure to see a full brawl of PU boards!
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The fact that a pneumatic board can release tire pressure for more grip makes it not a fair battle, that and size difference of wheels.
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Thane and PU is are worlds away from each other. That being said the Urethane class puts on a good competitive race. Grip being the great equalizer for differences in power.
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Amen. I bet that sharpens up the riders’ technique much more than riding PU ever could.
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For sure it would, technical aspects like sliding may even add a bigger skill factor ( not sure if sliding in the apex is more advantageous than remote braking before the turn).
Would you say there are more race-oriented Esk8 riders with urethane or PU ?
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Not even a close comparison. Rubber grips so much more.
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Race orientated there are more rubber wheel riders.
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Indeed and i dont use calibers XD unless it was a inside joke i missed.
When you race a esk8 is there any grip level playing, as in finding the grip of you board and riding right on that limit of grip? In a car if you loose grip you can still save it, but if you loose grip on an esk8 is it just “oh shit bail” or can you still save it? Sorry if this is a stupid question…
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You can still save it depending on the circumstances and what wheels you have. Urethane wheels, for example, can be slid on and people do it all the time, so you could technically drift a urethane board if you were skilled enough
It would really stress the crap out of all the components though, and you’d want a harder urethane compound than something like the TB 110’s.
Venom Magnum 78a for example, is one wheel that some downhill boarders use and slide on
On the pneumatic wheels side, I’m not really sure, but on offroad, you can recover if you know what you’re doing
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So this is why you should keep your weight majority on the front truck, this way if the back slides out it 's easier to get the back wheels to re-grip. This is why knowing how to initiate a slide helps, so that when you hit the edge of grip and the back slides out you can take control of it rather than letting it control you. As far as rubber and sliding I have no idea but I plan on trying it out
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Why would it stress out components ? Also what I am doing is sliding which is more like a FWD car while drifting is what AWD RWD cars do, I do not touch the gas until after sliding
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Establishing what makes a fast corner. Any drifting (entry, middle,exit) in a turn will produce a slower exit turn speed. On asphalt/concrete, using the maximum lateral grip available throughout the turn will always produce the best result exit turn speed. With braking and acceleration forces applied to the contact patch through a turn, total lateral grip is compromised by forward bite and braking force.
“Important” When a wheel is loaded Grip increases.
Keeping this as simple as possible
Load increases to the front axel on turn entry while under deceleration decreasing lateral grip on the rear. Lateral force overcomes lateral grip on entry, you lose the rear.
With Urethane there is a hard grip cutoff once lateral grip is lost . The lateral force must be decreased in order to regain lateral grip.
With rubber, lateral grip is lost on a curve that can be managed with throttle/brake control decreasing lateral force to regain total grip.
There are circumstances and design that have effect on lateral grip not discussed but these are the simple different characteristics between PU and Rubber.
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I suppose ability to lean the wheel (like bikes) and allow more deformation and repartition of the load helps to maximize grip whereas usual skate wheel design cannot lean ? And overall rubber will always allow more progressivity and deformation for a given load too ?
Thanks for the heads-up 
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Really good info there, all I know is based off feel and bro science lol
thought the baseplates u have go with calibers
oh no i got 3d servias adjustable baseplates. Caliber doesnt even make adjustables if i remember correctly.