(also @PickSix24)
I was experiencing the same spacing issue with my eLofty motors. I solved this by building an aluminum spacer which seats between the Can and the adapter. In this way I was able to use both bearings and still have a flush mounting of the adapter to the wheel hub. See my post here.
Donât you have some adapter centering issues like this? That ridge on the CAN is for centering and take some load, but you just made the adapter hole verry big?
Good question, discussion on this subtlety was covered at other locations on the linked thread.
The holes in the adapter for the bolts are the exact fit of the threads so the bolts keep the spacer centered. I also used split ring lock washers with the mounting bolts which are the exact diameter of the bolt head recesses in the adapter, so there should be no movement of the adapter compared with the bolts.
I thought about including an additional center seating ring in the spacer, but ultimately decided against it since (in combination with the seating ring from the CAN) there would only be ~1mm of material to support the spacer seating ring, which would likely just lead to a broken part.
Oh okay, I just included it in my 3D printed ring. Its a press fit on the motor can and also the adapter press fits on the spacer 
(See posts above)
Anyone have a recommendation for a ratchet bit that clears the axle, and allows me to take off and put back on this can nut?
I donât actually know the size of the nut⌠So maybe just recommend your preferred set of long ratchet bits? 
Thereâs about 40mm of axle to clear before the nut
You need to take of the adapter first, then a normal wrench will fit on the nut
Iâve removed the screws on the adapter before, and didnât really know how to take off the adapter⌠It wouldnât come off easily and I didnât want to break anything
Which drives do you have? If youâve got mine, do the adapters screw on or something?
Iâve also loctited the adapter screws in, hence my search for a workaround 
(not to mention 3 stock screws on one drive wonât come out at all)
I have the bound motor drives. If you remove the 6 screws the adapter should just come off. But pleas replace those philips screws with hexagons what kind of loctite did you use? Red, blue?
Red
And I would remove them, but even with heat, pressure and the right size screwdriver⌠No dice. I basically ended up stripping them halfway before I stopped completely
Iâve got replacements on deck, but granted they stay in I guess theyâre fine
Haha yea i think ur screwed then, use blue loctite for parts you wanna remove âoftenâ. No idea how to remove philips screws with red loctite lol, hexagon is already hard to remove.
Faucet wrench is what I use. Cheap as shit and works great.
(Screwdriver through the holes for leverage.)
Hell yeah, thanks Bill
Now to figure out the size of the nut⌠
that big assed nut on my eloftyâs was 19mm if I recall correctly
and thatâs what I call it, forever more, the motor nut shall be known as âthe big assed nutâ
Need a cheap way to remove the âbig ass nutâ while not removing the adapter screws?
Buy this:
3 doll hairs and change for a 6 point 19mm socket, and itâs easier than pie.
(It should be noted though that my drives had the nuts glued in⌠At least I think itâs glue. Donât be afraid to give it some oomph)
Thatâs a decent price for an actual tool.
I have those adapters and I canât put the inner wheel bearing because of the big protuberance that uses itâs place.
What do you guys think about removing this part and putting a 10mm bearing in there?
Iâm not sure the bearing would sit flush or would be locked by anything. Not sure if this would be a big deal.
If that part supports the core as it appears (mine are different), whatâs the goal with the bearing?
Relieving some stress on the drive bearing
Wouldnât the wheel be doing some of this? Not trying pick apart your reasoning, just genuinely interested in understanding load-sharing properties.
