thanks. i will charge the battery tonight and try again with this Meepo v1 esc.
If you don’t want speed, you can go with 10S.
Tbh, you could also go 12S, just electronically limit in VESC. This might be the better route as you’ll get better mileage thanks to higher voltage/lower current
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I think he already has the battery so thats why he was asking
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yes! i will try to use as much of the Meepo’s components as possible before buying new stuff. harder to justify buying my toys instead of diapers for the newborn…
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Makes trips for the newborn easier? 
But yeah there’s nothing wrong with going 10S
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This was from way back in October, but was there any word on if the wheels from the airless tires could be converted to pneumatics?
Hey could anybody tell me the precautions I need to take before I take this for a ride? I’ve read 2/3 of the thread but right now I’m in school and tight on time.
I’ve locktite the adapter but I feel like I’m missing something.
Also can you guys let me know if this config is ideal?
Last question
I have a flipsky vesc and I wonder if you could just plug in the eloft dd sensor or do I need to swap some wires.
Thank you in advance
… so do you have an enclosure? 
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As of right now I don’t. But I bought a kydex sheet on amazon and planning to mold it with a heat gun.
I would not ride without a proper enclosure
Yeah sir. I’m not risking hours spent on the battery to be riding without enclosure. I’m making sure this time around I have secure every nuts and bolts and electronic components.
@mishrasubhransu
When you do this, are you running it sensored?
When I try this on unsensored BLDC, my motors immediately starts cogging hard when I try to brake. This might be expected behavior for unsensored because the motor is trying to run at -4kmh, but I’m currently trying to brake at +30kmh. So it gets confused and cogs?
Thanks
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your deck and whole build is pretty f… nice dude !
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has anyone upgraded the bushings for the tkp setup?
the black mystery bushings that came with it are utter garbage, nothing but wobbles the whole time.
Some did yes, I’m planning to do it myself for the DKP that are wobbly too
You should contact @RipTideSports for some help!
fuuk yea, ordering it now.
anyone got first hand accounts with new bushings?
bushing positions from roadside to boardside so for the front, F1 is the bushing closest to the road in the front and F4 is the bushing closest to the deck in the front
94a pivot cups
Front truck
F1: KranK 87a ShortStreetCone (.4" tall)
F2: KranK 87a Barrel (.6" tall)
F3: KranK 90a ShortStreetBarrel (.4" tall)
F4: KranK 90a Barrel (.6" tall)
Rear Truck
R1: KranK 90a ShortStreetCone (.4" tall)
R2: KranK 90a Barrel (.6" tall)
R3: KranK 90a ShortStreetBarrel (.4" tall)
R4: KranK 90a Barrel (.6" tall)
this is my notes from when I was running full DKP rear trucks, the key to settling down the trucks for high speed situations is to keep the pair of bushings closest to the deck (F3-4 and R3-4) stiffer than the bushings closer to the road (F1-2 and R1-2) and the front easier to turn than the rear. The primary pair should initiate the turn, then the secondary pair should come into play when needed or wanted. I hope this is not too confusing as there is a lot going on with these trucks. The way we have it setup currently, you can run full speed all day and still have a lot of turn when needed, so agility and stability.
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i’m running tkp so ordered bushings for this setup:
96a pivot cups
Front
RS: 93a - KranK ShortStreetBarrel Duro Choices
BS: 96a - KranK Barrel
REAR
RS: 96a - KranK ShortStreetBarrel Duro Choices
BS: 96a - KranK Barrel
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NICE:
I run DKP drop thru front and TKP top mount rear in a split angle config…
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