Yeah, any spare parts I can send you a invoice directly. I will message you.
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My trucks arrived yesterday 
they are beautifull! I love the look, I love the printed protectors! Maybe I will reprint them in a color that matches the board.
Did not expect them to be preassambled, should I take them apart again and use some loctite?
Are the screws already glued in? Is it even necessary?
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My trucks arrived yesterday I love the look, I love the printed protectors and the 5° wedges extra.
Maybe I will reprint the protectors in a color that matches the board.
Did not expect them to be preassambled, should I take them apart again and use some loctite?
Are the screws already glued in? Is it even necessary?
Ahh I see. I have to disassemble them anyway dropmount them
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Oooooh. I want to see the drop mount deck you plan on using.
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About that…
It doesn’t matter how excited you are to ride if your loctite fails and your motor slides out of contact with your gears 
I was shredding great for 5 minutes though!
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The bolt that holds the pivot arm has a nord-lock washer, it does not need loctite. Don’t forget to include that washer when reassembling.
The set screw that keeps the queenpin from spinning has reusable thread locker. If it feels like to little resistance when screwing it in it may need more thread locker. (I leave the set screw backed out quarter turn or so)
Let me know if you want the files, I assume you mean the motor mount protectors? I haven’t shared those since I tend to make changes to the mounts pretty frequently.
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Nice builds! Cool seeing a west coast standard deck
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Also very important to use correct length bolt for Reachers. They need 2-3mm longer bolts compares to Flipsky. I found out the hard way.
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Heyo Dualities hivemind, is this bolt here red or blue loctite? Also does it matter which direction to insert the bolt?
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There is a Nord-lock washer that keeps everything together, no thread locker needed. You shouldn’t really remove that unless you’re flipping the hanger direction.
Do you mean baseplate direction?
On the 5 degree baseplate (single removable pivot arm) it matters. On the 0 degree baseplate (two removable pivot arms) it doesn’t matter
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Nevermind, I’ll just put it back together exactly how I got it. Do you have to remove that bolt to change the bushings?
afaik you should be able to pull out the queen pin to change bushings?
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In order to remove the board side bushing it does require removal of the truck from the board (unless you have access to queen pin from the top). Remove roadside bushing, loosen set screw, remove queen pin from bottom, replace board side bushing and reassemble. Board side bushings slide out without removing pivot arm.
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Went from 270 front and back to 210 front 240 back to being the tires in closer to center. Changed up angles from 40/15 to 37.5/12.5 as well which seems to be a good balance between turning radius and high speed stability. Also testing some new bushing shapes that Tito is working on and they seem very promising. Easier to stay leaned over in the faster corners without compromising stability. Need new tires so I can really push this setup but so far so good.
6395 motors on the 240mm hangar ^^ there’s 1-2mm of clearance there. Duality washer for reference.
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This thing is such a a weapon…
I love esk8… But we are not even in the same hobby…
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Nice changes, I like the narrower hangers
Excited about these. In APS formula, they seem to offer better stability and better turnability than the current stock bushings. They are a lot of fun for carving… WFB formula offers a even more linear feeling which is good on the track.
Aiming to have these available next month.
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