Duality Trucks by Tito Systems

this is what i was referring to as i have slots originally for the 3link heim on my deck allows the queenpin to go through without interference but i can’t access the grub screw. not really a big deal as i don’t change bushings often, just an observation and personal opinion

Going on now!

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Sweet goodness dude.

I hope you enjoy them!!!

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So we doing a esk8con Duality Truck fam photo? Looks like I caved to peer pressure and I’m showing up for Saturday and Sunday to get my first ride on this crazy thing.. Who else is bringing their Duality boards??

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That’s your board?? She’s a beauty!

If everything goes to plan, I’ll be showing up with two duality boards :innocent:

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Yeah, Artem and Poast are bringing it to esk8con to hang out at their booth (I think??) when I’m not tooling around on it. If someone wants to grab a ride on it, have at it! I also have another board with Dualities but that one is staying at home…

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crazy how much articulation these trucks have. removed risers and pushed trucks farther forward. might bring the fronts back tho if i find i don’t have enough weight up there. need to get the motor pinions back on and test it as it sits.

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That’s with or without lean stoppers?

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that’s with lean stoppers. the fronts actually have a higher lean stopper than the rear (because i had motor-deck clearance issues which i recently resolved and thus will be changing back)

Okay. It’s worth mentioning I recently added a 27.5 degree lean stopper file to first post, 25 degrees is stock. (I only recommended for use in the front if needed.)

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What happens when you remove lean stoppers… asking for a friend. :stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes:

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Your bushings cry and crack :grin:

My understanding is the lead stoppers are basically just to make the bushings last longer (and stop wheelbite)

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oxi-clean-but-wait-theres-more

@tuckjohn is right. There is more potential for bushing damage. Bushings were getting damaged in early testing which was mostly APS and before switching to barrels up front… So far venom and krank barrels have been holding up okay in limited testing with no lean stopper, wfb and APS barrels might be okay, not sure. (Try at your own risk). Chubby in the rear definitely needs the 25 degree stock lean stopper or it will hit the hanger. Bigger bushings also tend to be less durable.

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I’ve been running WFB barrel in the front with no lean stopper at all, so 33 degree articulation since last summer and there’s no signs of bushing damage.

Also I’ve been running WFB chubby in the rear since last summer, there I allow about 30 degrees of lean instead of the stock 25 and the maximum 33. Restricted because of motor bite. Those are also holding up great with zero signs of damage. Going over the stock 25 degree on chubbies WILL make your washers bend and take the shape of a cone, do this at your own risk. However I actually grown to like cone shaped washers more than flat washers on my chubbies. This is very much personal preference though. Edit: running no lean stopper on chubbies, especially with bent washers that requires more preload on the bushings, can potentially cause kingpin failure, so I no longer recommend this setup to others - said still run it for myself if I want chubbies in the back.

The board was used on countless track sessions and I could hit the end of lean even with this setup - so I would say I’m pretty hard on bushings.

WFB is great for track and straight line high speed, it makes everything easy and if you aren’t on track I’d even say it makes everything boring, especially on a stiff deck. For carving I prefer the feel and rebound of APS, however APS does start to form small cracks over time on my setup, so if you try APS, check on your bushings from time to time especially on the chubbies.

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So what I’m hearing is… do it.

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Dooooo it

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So I think I’m just slow and/ or weak. But holy cow! How do you flip the hangar?
I’m having a darned time getting the silver bolt out to do so.
Just afraid I’m going to strip it out.

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Idk fully what you mean but i think you need to remove a grub screw found on the side of the base so you can pull out the pin.

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I apologize, I’m referring to this bolt, which I believe I need to remove in order to flip the hanger

Never mind. I was just being weak… got it.

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