do i have to have fish paper rings?

I ran out of them and wondering if they are 100% necessary?


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Is there anything else that would work? like kapton taping them or guess i could cut them out of my fish paper. Sorry about the noob questions

no, u need something that do insulation and abrasion resistance.

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i guess while we’re at it

make sure you got a spot welder too and are not soldering your batteries


ok. Damn thought you were going give me an option, but appreciate the bluntness and help telling me it’s a bad idea to jerry rig something!

is this solder job acceptable? I took off the nickel plate that I prematurely spot welded on, so I didn’t put alot of heat into the cells. They are new and still give me a 3.7 volt reading like they did before so I don’t think the cells are damaged, just old but purchased new and never used.

thanks frame!


got that! maletrics. check out my last comment with pictures if you go a sec. thanks so much!!

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I destructively test things that might be sketchy.

Besides cleaning the solder joint with isopropyl etoh, you could always recreate the same solder joint and be rough on it.

I only chime in bc I was recently surprised to pull off what looked like a well distributed solder joint by hand.

In regards to fish paper, search for shoulder shorts. It’s not fun.


maybe, idk

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I mean it’s not pretty but it’s probably okay

If it passes a strong pull test it might be fine

Hard to say. doesn’t look as well melted into the nickel as I’d like.

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You could cut your own rings out of fishpaper as long as you’re careful to make the ID and OD the right size, but you really can’t use other materials like kapton.

Kapton is very heat resistant, but it’s too thin and fragile for abrasion resistance, which is what the thick fibrous nature of fishpaper excels at.

Your solder joint looks like you didnt get really good wet-out of the solder on the nickel before adding the wire. I always like to pre-tin the wire and the nickel, before joining the two together. More heat or a more aggressive flux can both help with getting good wet-out on nickel, as It’s harder to wet than copper.


thanks, they’re soldered. my iron is a sequre at 400 degrees with a pointy tip. I bought a $30 harbor freight generic gun type iron also, just to check against the goes up to a 100 watts, but it doesn’t seem to work any better for me. a spaded tip may be the answer, kinda a bitch to find on the web…it’s a s1012 pro i think, any vendor ideas??

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does it come with a holster Liam?!?!

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only the shoulder type

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Just make them out of fishpaper you obviously have

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I mean, yes he could do that but it sounds like the most annoying work ever given that 200 pieces is like 10 bucks and maybe a day or two delivery.

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Just a side note…
You can (heat) damage the cells without affecting their voltage since the amount of charge inside the cells would still be the same.

Heat damage could show up as an increase in internal resistance (more voltage sag), more self-discharge (voltage drops faster when not used), or even as a short-circuit later if you damaged the top seal or internal insulator sheet (“separator”).

Those lumps on the top indicate that solder was hardening while you were still melting it elsewhere, meaning not enough heat…

So I can’t say for certain that that’s an acceptable solder connection, but then again, if you had already made a solder pool on the nickel and the wire was pre-tinned and then you added extra solder on top after the wire was already soldered to the nickel, it could be fine.

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“this solder iron she told you not to worry about”