no no, clip the alligator clip to a solid piece of wire or some other conductive probe and just stick it to it.
Granted, there’s clearly a busted wire and if nothings broken, its probably gonna work beautifully. You can test it with a probe to get a sense of where you might be headed. But its hardly conclusive. Just something you cant do like you said, once its apart
if you can open up the motor(removing the top end there in the picture) and get maybe 1-2cm of length on the broken phase. Then its fixable. It’s going to be tricky but its definatly doable.
Worse case, you will have to unwound it abit to get some length to repair it.
Only problem i see is that your undamaged phases will practically be longer than the broken one, since all the wires are individually insulated by a coating, to repair it you need to remove the coating with some acid or sand it of very carefully. Then solder backsome wire to get the length you need to reach back to the ESC. This effectively reduces the length of the separated conductors however, making the “new” part of the conductor an extension of the path from the ESCs PCB essentially.
Not sure If I’m making any sense to you 
It probably wont pose much of a problem since the inductance is in the coils not in the straight part of the wire. But there is an upside to rewinding it if you wish to have it identical to the others.
The solderjoint on your repair will definatly be more prone to wear than the more flexible unbroken ones as well.
It makes sense to me. But as it is in front of the coils and only few Millimeters I hope it won’t have any effect.
Unfortunately I won’t be home till Sunday to work on this 
After some fumbling around with the preparations/precautions and not too beautiful soldering…
I managed to revive it 
At the weekend I’ll search for the source of these vibration(noises) 
Update:
Source of vibration were 3 magnets slightly grinding over the stator. After some mechanical adjustments, the gap is even all around.
Maiden voyage on old board with ordinary ESC:
I know, very very improvised with tape and stuff, low speed and accelaration but I just wanted to ride so desperately 
The motor sounds strained but the final board will be powered by two of them with 2 VESC.
Now I will start working on the second motor, see you in 6 months 
Is it the esc that makes the motor sound like that? 
Might just be the camera close to the motor but it sounds like you’re about to take off to the sky 
I hope it is the ESC
In fact I was quite far away from take off (appr. 20km/h).
I will give an update as soon as the makerX VESC arrive and work.
Yeah, Devin would find it hahahhahahaha hystersis
Finally I had some time to finish the second motor, board itself and electric stuff:
And actually it ran nice and smooth:
BUT
After a short ride (before snow fell, the first time this year…), one motor gave some kind of creepy grinding sounds. So I stopped testing and carried Frankensteins monster home 
Between the aluminium sleeve support and the stator of the motor had gathered some aluminium powder… grinding traces weren’t hard to find
Explanation:
The thinnest part of the aluminium tube (as sleeve support) is 0,5mm thick having a gap of 0,5mm radial to the stator. I knew that this would be the Achilles’ heel of my design but I expected the hard PU and aluminium to not bend… and it didn’t…at least on one side…but on the other side it did 
Anyways, I always wanted to cast my own hub sleeves where I can have a thicker support and more space for an aluminium tube 
This entire project is so awesome!! Just curious, how much estimated did you spend so far R&D’ing the project?
Thanks 
Difficult question. The Hub Motor design grew over a couple of weeks step by step. But I would guess, that the first design took about 3 complete days for measuring the truck and motor, modelling everything in CAD and searching the necessary new components.
And how much is your rent/mortgage? 
jk
What do you mean?
it was a joke because you said the cost to develop was not easy to answer but gave an amount of time it took you to get the work done. If you needed your time greatly to pay for an expensive living situation then the time spent on the hub design would have “cost” you more. Hope it makes sense to you.
Now I get it…lost in translation
Apparently, I already misunderstood cyrulians question. I thought somehow the question was about how much (time) I spent, but you we were asking about the money 
Well, that I could calculate at least for the bought components:
75€ for the APS motor (could have used cheaper ones but this one I knew, I already had it and they do the kV just as you need them)
12€ for the maytech sleeve (first version)
5€ for the additional large bearing
10€ for aluminium parts, screws etc,
5€ 3D printed parts
107€ for 1 version
Version 2 adds another 20€ for the PU (although it is enough to cast 3, not only 1 for 20€) and new aluminium parts for the mould:
127€ (Approximately) for Version 2
Times 2 for 2 motors, I spent about 250€ for it. If I calculated my hours and necessary tools I would probably start crying!
So let’s say they only cost about 100€ for each motor 
By the way, the final design:
https://forum.esk8.news/t/pictures-and-nothing-else/30415/4947?u=dersi
First 10km ran quite smooth and nice:
At the end after some km with 40km/h motors reached 80 degrees Celsius but no sign of defects so far 
heat and hubmotors, the saga continues
Will there ever be a propper solution to hubmotor heat problem, like forced air cooling with some sortof metal fins. From my understanding raptors heatpipes werent enough to remove all the heat.
Yeah and I’m not surprised. Read numerous posts about it and I believe the physics 
I pushed it quite hard that day and it is 8S with up to 40A allowed for each motor. I provoked it to see how bad it would get.
But I didn’t design it for long distance races at 40-50km/h. Just need it for short sprints 
Nevertheless I printed some rudimentary air scoops to maybe improve ventilation. I will try to evaluate if they might have any positive affect on the temperature but I don’t like the look…
The rotor throws the air out with centrifugal force. You want a scoop on the other side and where you have holes add blades inside for the air to be thrown out of like a fan. I did the same as you once.
I see ur drawing snd the metal plate u have with the scoops… if u milled slits going from center to edge would be ideal for throwing air out, but then you need a hole on the other side and will be sucking up all kinds of ferromagnetic debris.
