I was referrring to @Pottsy 
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Ah, my bad bro
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I’m still gonna check out that channel though 
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Sorry, brisbane Australia his website worked it out, I can get the pei shipped for AU $220 instead of $330, if they’re being shipped from Dubai I can probably see it but surely they’re being drop shipped?
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I get this but also dont.
This community has many people who have printers who can hook you up if needed.
So you have a printer, just have to ask my dude.
Also NylonG and X are solid AF. Good luck breaking a NylonG part if printed correctly.
Ye have little faith in additive manufacturing.
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#Truth
I don’t have much. I haven’t had great experiences with it. Something about solid metal and fiberglass (and even sometimes injection molded ABS) just gives me so much trust in parts that I don’t have with 3D printed things.
Maybe it’s wrong, you may be right.
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I have a printer but it’s too small.
Also Nylon G or X are extremely abrasive to nozzles and drive gears, so I tend to stick to unfilled materials where I can for the sake of longevity.
And I’m halfway with Brian. True, 3d printed parts can be just as strong and robust as injection molded ones, but they can also be far weaker, and in unexpected ways. One setting or parameter can screw your entire structural integrity.
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I believe both can be the same integrity and strength no matter printed or molded etc etc.
At this point we can print in stainless steal, no jokes. So even metals are becoming a area for additive manufacturing on house and professional.
Abrasive filaments I suggest olsen ruby nozzle, its not a gimmick.
You can print pounds of NylonG/X with it.
I have one that lasted over a year, and only failed by the ruby part coming unglued from the head.
So truly worth it and Im telling you, they are TUFFFFFFFF nozzles and I have my printer running 24/7 365. Real talk tons of material no wear.
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This can be said for molding also, and same for materials used.
If its a bad batch its a bad batch.
additive manufacturing can make inner structures within a part to gain strength amongst other things
that a mold can not do. Im not hear saying one is better than the other. Im just saying that in the right
hands both can get the job done and the job done right.
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working on one! If it gets in production before your order ships, I will throw one in
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Its just that you have to print your prints with the layers perpendicular to the forces applied on it, the layer adhesion or whatever people call it still sucks donkey dong.
Also titanium prints are stronger than milled ti i heard, since the crystals bond together with the heat.
I think if i printed the rims standing up, with the layers perpendicular to the force of the tire it would have been wayyyy stronger.
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@Fungineers Hello - is your Discord still open? The invite on your site seems to be expired. Would love to tale a look. Thanks,
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Pretty much everyone is on discord now, but for new people here and for the sake of documentation, heres how a completed Funwheel kit looks like. The rails and adapters are cnced aluminium and anodized. The wheel is the custom Funwheel hub, and everything else is 3d printed.
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What is the pole count to enter in vesc tool for your hub? @Fungineers
Edit: after some more research I figured out it’s 30 poles, or 15 pole pairs. Hope this helps future peoples!
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