So… I will use a 220uF capacitor for making the 5V power more stable (as you said, when turning the VESC on or driving up hills, the 5V is a bit spikey) and a 22pF between reset and ground
I replaced a 22pf capacitor with a bigger one and a resistor. (I can look up exact valuesnof them if youre interested.)
Edit: the capacitor between + and - stayed there.
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That would be great!
So did you use this for 5V GND or Redet GND?..
I will edit this and pair 5V GND and PWM…
Of course that’s better… Than you can install a pin header and plug your servo cable on it, no soldering for that:)
I’ll try out and see how it works for me
A remote pcb could be very hard to make because of size, shape etc right?
But there has to be a way to make it better than this:
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Once its closed, you dont see a difference 
.
Yeah but I’m sure a proper PCB lasts longer…
I’ll try designing one in the next few days 
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Great, im very interested to see how it will come out.
Maybe you could make the whole remote smaller since there wont be any wires that waste space.
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What size is the remote? Is it larger than 11x9x9 cm? @Monomas11
I would love to get this budget 3D printer to make a remote case with it
Ender 3 is not much more cost but is a well proven design with a larger support community, this would be a better budget printer option.
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Rule of thumb;
On any supply net to a IC, put one 100nF as close a possible to the the input pin.
It’s just good practice and hard to argue with.
In this case both modules probably has filter and bulk caps on thier PCBs, so you’re pretty safe.
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Why is there no noise filter between arduino and NRF? You think that the 3V3 get filtered / regulated on the NRF?
(Edit:) so you say for the Arduino and NRFmodule, it should be no problem because they’re protected for that case?
On the Arduino official page they say something very contradictory… Something along the lines “the 5V is output only, if you use it as a input, chances are, your arduino dies, because there’s no protection against voltage spikes etc”
Yeah… . I’ll go with the ender 3
Why didn’t SolidGeek use a 128*64 screen for better readability?
Thank you very much!
Do you Guys have any idea of improvements on the remote on the hardware side of things?
I’m thinking about changing the remote inside a little bit when I got a 3d printer in order to make a custom pcb that fits through the screws and makes everything a bit cleaner… Not easy though
I’m not familiar with either of the modules so I have no clue where each voltage is regulated. Bulk cap is usually close to the regulated output.
Dont use arduino stuff so can’t really argue anything there.
If you look at the huge datasheet of the NRF you’ll see that in thier guidelines they recommend decoupling on each of thier supply pins. I the designs I’ve done I use 100nF and 1nF on each and one 4.7uF for bulk. Never had any problems.
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Really noob question here. How do I upload the code to the control? Do you know any tutorials that you could refer me to?
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