I’d probably heat it up with a heat gun to soften the epoxy but I’d make sure I had the thin attachment to try and localize the heat, then twist,
Mine obviously twisted with torque and broke the epoxy seal for me so I guess in a way I was lucky
Better? I gotta read into this
Thanks. It’s slowly coming loose. Confirmed that my locating pin was missing altogether. Did you find your missing locating pin or did you insert a new one during re-assembly? Any tips on where I might find a replacement pin?
Fixed it… I’ll post photos and details on the solution after reassembly.
Well, not quite out of the woods yet. I opened the other motor and entered a nightmare.
These motors are big heaping piles of absolute shit. I wasn’t expecting these motors to be this bad. Stay FAR away from these motors.
The omission of the locating pin in both of my motors makes them completely defective. I’m outside of my PayPal coverage, so I’m S.O.L. on this. What an utter disappointment.
I have no idea how to fix this these copper windings. Can I just resolder them?
As mentioned above, @dickyho sells defective motors that will fail shortly under load. If you were unfortunate enough to have purchased from him in the past, there is a simple DIY fix–provided your phase wires were not damaged like mine.
The missing pin for the stator/motor shaft keyway can be replaced with an M1.5 grub screw or shaft of some kind.
I discovered this by inserting an M1.5 allen key into the space.
I happened to have some nails that were the same diameter, so I hacksawed off the end like so and inserted it into the void keyway:
This should hold up well and won’t fall out as it is flanked on each end but the motor bearings. A small amount of torque will also lock it into place.
I wish I had know the severity of @dickyho’s motor defects when I first created this thread last month, as I could have saved the motor if I had opened it at that point and performed the repair.
Despite this fix, I do not recommend purchasing these motors. Only purchase them knowing fully that they are defective and need to be opened and repaired. Since they are not sold at a discount for the defect, they’re not worth the price that they cost. It’s misleading and bad business for anyone to sell these motors in this state.
Ouch sorry for your loss I regards to the second motor.
yeah I just made a new keyway from some welding rod I had the Allen key looks even better for the task than what I used.
You could buy some magnet wire and re do them by hand. Tedious but a fun project I reckon
My motors were not from dicky but I assume he purchased them from the same vendor in China as I did
Oh boy… That’s pretty bad. Those are a pain to solder because they’re usually all epoxy coated, so you’d need to sand the ends of every strand before anything sticks to them
Yep, I doubt these are specific to dickyho but rather to this generic China motor model. I suspect that all of these motors are defective. The reason why some may encounter this issue and not others is probable a function of two factors: rider weight and degree of riding incline.
Someone lighter than me and riding on mostly flat surfaces can probably get by fine with the epoxy that holds the stator to the motor housing shaft. Without the locking pin, the SF hills I have been riding caused the slipping that damaged mine.
Yeah I’m fat too
Yeah, it doesn’t seem like soldering them is going to be feasible, especially where they broke. I’ve decided to buy another and keep this around as a spare that I can use to practice rewinding. Being able to rewind a motor seems like a skill that will come in handy in this hobby.
Received the replacement motor that I purchased, and it was also missing the keyway pin 
. Opened it up and added my DIY pin. Working well so far. I like these motors but I’m pretty sure they are all missing this pin and therefore defective. Horrible manufacturing oversight, but at least there is a workaround.
I have 4 of these motors and they are running fine so far. Im pretty sure mine have no locking pin either. This hole in the laminations is probably for something else(there was no locking pin in my keda motors either)
Another thing to note for these cheap motors or any kind of motor. Add a cable tie or something to stop the wires exiting the motors from moving. Not doing this will inevitably lead to failiure because of the movement of your trucks. This is probably why your sensor wires got loose.
I could not disagree more. As I mentioned above, the impact of this manufacturing defect is a function of rider weight and riding incline. Epoxy can only support so many pounds of torque. I am a fat American and therefore will more quickly reach the torque failure threshold of this epoxy when riding up California hills than other riders will. This keyway is for locking the stator to the motor housing shaft to prevent stress on the phase wires caused by this stator-shaft rotation as a result of the manufacturing defect.
While a cable tie may clean up the external routing of the phase wires it will do nothing whatsoever to prevent this issue. When the stator rotates on the motor housing shaft, it winds up the phase wires internally. If you’re lucky, the torsion will disconnect your phase wires from the ESC before further damage to the phase wires or hall sensor wires occurs.
Truck movement also has absolutely nothing to do with this issue. Bottom line: a missing locking pin for a keyway on a motor shaft is a manufacturing defect.
You can put cable-tie lipstick on a defective pig, but it’s still a defective pig. Fix the defect to fix the issue.