The problem is it’s made out of some weak ass carbon. Get some fibrous carbon and we’ll see if you have to worry anyone.
This is the exact reason why I use @akhlut 's X-Things and plates. Also being heavier, I had @Sender reinforce my decks just to give them a little more strength
I think in your case, something like what @A13XR3 mentioned from @RipTideSports would help prevent the wear on the wood
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Years ago when my son and I started making drop through decks, we started making frames to reinforce the deck. We did not like the idea of our lives resting on such a weak structure, so we made these that mount to the bottom of the deck: https://www.riptidesports.com/backing-frames-for-drop-through-trucks/
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Hey hey. Thats just unfounded rumour.
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those look ****ing exquisite 
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As I stated above, I already had the backing frames for the drop through deck installed for the entire duration of the board. They probably helped in delaying the inevitable failure of a budget deck being pushed to 30mph for 1000 miles.
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a lesson learned i guess… ever since i tried a cheap street skateboard back when i was 13 i never again set foot on a cheap piece of wood - its just not the right place to save money
get a fking landyachtz bro ^^
I’m guessing this failure is also very closely related to deck construction, rather than just the the drop though’s base plate hole drawbacks. You can see in the pics how it’s broken in 3 major sections. Those sections are comprised of smaller layers, 3 of 3 I think, but the bond inside those larger sections is clearly much better than between the 3 thicker sections.
Also notice how the deck has split along the grain on the top and bottom section. The center section grains should be run normal to these on top and bottom. I assume if the grain orientations were flipped the breaks would face the opposite direction as well. Wonder how this would effect the longevity of the mount holes.
i dunno… but I’m going to re-waterproof the thru-bolt and drop-thru exposed wood again, just 'cause…
Wooden decks should be reinforced with X-Things, I-Things, metal frames, etc. Bolts will hold onto them sandwiching the decks in between, taking the stress out of the mounting holes and preventing cracks across the wood.
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Maybe this has something to do with the cause of the problem
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maybe. Maple is maple, wood is wood though… the plys and how it presses probably plays a small percentage more towards longevity unless you have some really shit stock.
imo, the main take away here has been said many times. X things, I don’t like so much. if you are using an x thing to reenforce a drop through deck just cause you have it on hand, fine. otherwise if you aren’t running drop through, don’t buy or build on a drop through deck! and if you do, at least use some metal re-enforcement opposite the baseplate… this is absolutely essential. even if I had CF or FG reenforced bamboo or whatever I wouldn’t think about mounting directly to wood any side on drop through without re-enforcement brackets or something. Even straight topmount 13 ply maple no cutouts will eventually stress fracture/crack, crash, and burn.
The fact op made it this far is probably par for the course but it’s not necessary and far from ideal. Anyone thinking about building topmount on dropthrough platforms heed the advice of most everyone else in this thread.
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Wait but I mounted drop through not top mount, as I know top mount on a drop through is a terrible idea. Anyways, lesson learned, won’t happen again. Hopefully serves as warning to others as well. Glad I made it this far.
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